Select to expand quoteRamona said..
I would just use one of the aluminium based silver primers. If you need to do some minor filling on the under water bits mix some garden lime into the hydroseal till its a putty like consistency and smooth in.
Yes the aluminium based paint is a great option these days but i have the red lead so may as well use it. Twoing and frowing a bit though as the toxic nature of red lead has me worried a bit. The lime is a great idea, thanks for reminding me! Ramona, you must have done some time working on wooden hulls to come up with this advise :) Years ago when i was helping out on the Alma Dopel we used Stockholm tar with lime mixed in for the seams, so lime to thicken the hydro seal for a bit of filler and to put the bugs off is a great idea. We had to rout out all the seams of the Alma Dopel because after the first restoration they stopped the seams with linseed oil putty and as the seams where comparatively wide being a large boat, and the torledo worms loved the linseed oil in the putty! Not a good situation. Thanks everyone for your input. It's great to mull over the options and bounce a few ideas around.
Lifted some of the matt fiberglass covering the deck timber and gave it a quick sand. The deck looks good under the glass. The challenge will be to have a leak free deck as I'm sure that is why they laid glass over in the first place. I will be cleaning the seams out and "priming" with bees wax. Then using the thinnest caulking iron I will hammer a thin strand of cotton into the seams and then fill with some rubberized tar.
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got a bit more done in the stripping dept.
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Select to expand quoteGuitz said..Ramona said..
I would just use one of the aluminium based silver primers. If you need to do some minor filling on the under water bits mix some garden lime into the hydroseal till its a putty like consistency and smooth in.
Yes the aluminium based paint is a great option these days but i have the red lead so may as well use it. Twoing and frowing a bit though as the toxic nature of red lead has me worried a bit. The lime is a great idea, thanks for reminding me! Ramona, you must have done some time working on wooden hulls to come up with this advise :) Years ago when i was helping out on the Alma Dopel we used Stockholm tar with lime mixed in for the seams, so lime to thicken the hydro seal for a bit of filler and to put the bugs off is a great idea. We had to rout out all the seams of the Alma Dopel because after the first restoration they stopped the seams with linseed oil putty and as the seams where comparatively wide being a large boat, and the torledo worms loved the linseed oil in the putty! Not a good situation. Thanks everyone for your input. It's great to mull over the options and bounce a few ideas around.
My old fishing boat is over seventy years old now and still going strong. I owned her for 22 years, we are merely caretakers. Still has all the original oregon planks, some sister ribs in the bow.
On this page down near the bottom, "Vigilante". www.boatregister.net/WW2_ArmyWorkBoats.html
Well there you go! They are a classic! That web page is full of interesting info and pics. There was one for years in Kananook Creek ,Frankston, used by the hire boat co as the office. And another was at Ryall on Phillip Island as a blokes floating holiday house......much cheaper than buying into the real estate market. Great solid boats.
Re the mast, yes we took it off at Sorrento Jetty with the crane on the back of the truck. If someone had a camera on us they would have captured a "funneyest home vid moment"!! I was holding the bottom while the driver operated the crane. We thought we had the sling close to the centre of balance for the mast but when it disloged from the tabenackle, with a bit of a jolt, I ended up a few feet in the air holding on for dear life while the other bloke made a dash for the top end of the mast to stabelize the situation. After the initial shock, I nearly let go with laughter........one of those classic Charlie Chaplin moments!
That article is a fascinating read. The Navy had a few of those boats used as dive boats as I recall.
I worked as engineer on a few of the Fairmiles out of Mackay that were converted to tourist boats called Roylen Cruisers. With their petrol engines in wartime trim they were virtual floating bombs. All the fuel and water tanks were riveted copper.
The 100 foot Fairmiles and the 65 foot ex SAR "Crash" boats are what opened up the Whitsundays to tourism post WWII. Met a guy who said he saw 20 Fairmiles in New Guinea burnt to the waterline at the end of the war. That would bring tears to your eyes.
A mate of mine has this boat which is a Flemming "Moreton Bay Cruiser".
On a completely different note, I have a Seaway 25 trailer sailer with a family of 5 so space is always at a premium. Being on FNQ we have pretty consistent mozzies all year round. We have the foredeck hatch screen and we have the companionway wooden frames hatches with mozzie wire. Carrying and storing an extra set of hatches is a PITA!
Solution is to make up a flexible set that can be rolled up. I used the plastic wire with curtain wire and hooks for the laterals and Velcro along the sides that stick to the hoodliner carpet.
The hooks can be fiddly to undo so I tied off some bright pink string that you can grab and pull the hook with. Not particularly pretty but they only get used a few times and store easily out of the way.
Replaced the SS u bolts for the upper and lower stays. One was corroded 50% on one bolt. 
All the rest were AOK.
Halyards etc were replaced 2yrs ago at this time and all mast and boom fittings were refitted. The standing rigging was replaced last year at this time and now the fastenings.
Should be good for 8yrs to start the process again. What do you think?
I know it is a fairly light boat but I do not like the idea of U bolts carrying the load of standing rigging. 
I pulled out my compression post (member?) Which had become become slightly rusty. I think the chain plates may have been leaking....
Select to expand quoteslammin said..
OK but why? I'm replacing not creating.
U bolts sort of implies that they go through the deck, have a backing plate and that is it which seems to be a bit light on for the load.
However if that is the way the boat was designed and built we have to assume they knew what they were doing and replacing with new of the same will be quite adequate. I have not seen your boat so I cannot offer a qualified opinion really.
I believe there is still a Seaway 25 at our local sailing club and I will try to get a look at it when I am there next. Like I say though, if that is the way it was put together and you are replacing with same new I am sure it will be fine.
Ahh, that makes sense.
I do have a bad habit of only giving only a modicum of information. I guess I'm just a v lazy typer.
The ubolts pass thru a reinforced full grp deck then thru stainless angle welded to over foot long strops. Which is replicated fore and aft (uppers and lowers) sandwiching a purpose designed bulkhead.
Out of interest the ubolts are short and fat with top and bottom backing plate (the bottom plate is recycled from the old ones, they have washers as standard) and actually fatter now because the original are no longer made by Ronstan. Ronstan won't give a swl for ubolts but the same sizing in wichards is 3t and breaking load 4.8t.
Keep in mind too that the boat is only 1.8t with hull ballast and only 90kgs in the centreboard so she heels pretty early.
The hardest part was removing the old ones. I had a 1m long solid iron bar about an inch thick, which i used to lever them out. I bent the bar twice. That was with just the silicon holding them in. Also FWIW I was promised they were done after 2000..
Another thing we are maintaining an owners register over on trailersailerplace.com.au. if you remember the name of your local Seaway I could have a squiz. 
Finally got a couple of bolts into the engineered plates that take my New / Old / 6 months Old Self Taylor's ! Will Drill and Tap all 10 holes on both sides next week after working and then cramp it all down with FixTech. Then I will remove the old Non S/T winches and possibly marine carpet the top of the cowling. Also threw a couple of loads of washing on and pressed up my water tanks to 1000 litres
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Finally got a couple of bolts into the engineered plates that take my New / Old / 6 months Old Self Taylor's ! Will Drill and Tap all 10 holes on both sides next week after working and then cramp it all down with FixTech. Then I will remove the old Non S/T winches and possibly marine carpet the top of the cowling. Also threw a couple of loads of washing on and pressed up my water tanks to 1000 litres
Where exactly is this machine on your boat, South?
Select to expand quoteslammin said..
Ahh, that makes sense.
I do have a bad habit of only giving only a modicum of information. I guess I'm just a v lazy typer.
The ubolts pass thru a reinforced full grp deck then thru stainless angle welded to over foot long strops. Which is replicated fore and aft (uppers and lowers) sandwiching a purpose designed bulkhead.
Out of interest the ubolts are short and fat with top and bottom backing plate (the bottom plate is recycled from the old ones, they have washers as standard) and actually fatter now because the original are no longer made by Ronstan. Ronstan won't give a swl for ubolts but the same sizing in wichards is 3t and breaking load 4.8t.
Keep in mind too that the boat is only 1.8t with hull ballast and only 90kgs in the centreboard so she heels pretty early.
The hardest part was removing the old ones. I had a 1m long solid iron bar about an inch thick, which i used to lever them out. I bent the bar twice. That was with just the silicon holding them in. Also FWIW I was promised they were done after 2000..
Another thing we are maintaining an owners register over on trailersailerplace.com.au. if you remember the name of your local Seaway I could have a squiz.
The one thing I would be concerned about with U bolts is that some have say 3/8 inch dia U size with say 5/16 inch thread size with a sharp corner (machined) between the two sizes. The corner then becomes a very localised stress point which is the worst thing for s/s.
Most bolts these days have rolled rather than cut threads which is a good thing by 1. The grain structure of the metal is maintained and 2. Manufacture is more economical.
If you could put some pics up (on deck and below) there would be a lot better perspective. While the yacht may only be 1.8 tonnes displacement, when you get her cranking in a stiff breeze, at different points (such as the shroud to deck attachments) could be much greater).
Seaway 25s are hooters. Are they an Adams design??
Yes I did some reading because the originals weren't available. This was an interesting reference.
www.clampsinc.com/guidelines-for-u-bolt-design.html
I ended up with both larger turned and similar rolled.
As for the Seaway its a very popular design of maxi TSer. Doug Peterson. For me the selling points are internal ballast. Designed for wind swell. Very high pointing. Open transom. JOG, under cockpit king size berth, v.big v-berth. Similar vintage contenders are Noelex, Sonata, neither tick my boxes. Ross is the modern equivalent, plumb bow, flat stern, similar under cockpit king size berth but quite a few more $s. We were tempted to save long for a Ross but the boats builder pointed out yoi could be sailing now or waiting.... Do it now. Best advice we were given. As for speed she makes hull speed too easily, making me a lazy tweaker.
Gotta run.
If it is a Doug Peterson design it has to be good.
"As for speed she makes hull speed too easily, making me a lazy tweaker.".......I like that. 
The mast got delivered today! Now being prepped ready for installation....getting closer!
The mast is a one piece design, and at 17mtrs is too long for slinging on top of the boat cradle, so it gets its own cradle and ships separate to the boat. Sucks for the cost, but I've stopped looking at that bit.
The spreaders next, it's worthy of note that the sprit, boom and mast are all cf, yet the spreaders are alloy! And cf is not an option??
The whole mast setup in quite interesting, to me at least 
. I've been sailing for 30 odd years and yet there is some trepidation. There is some design features that I wonder are actually better or worse, but Structures has a long pedigree in this hull form/rig setup, so I am hopeful it is a good thing.
An example of this in relation to the mast:
- No backstay. No runners, nuttin.
- No vang. Well, the weirdest one you've seen in your life, it fair dinkum looks exactly like a gybe preventer.
- CF mast does not bend. At all.
- Three sail rig.
- German mainsheet setup. Looks weird with just one sheet to the traveller.
Sister ship photo. Like where's wally ,where is the vang! I've gone for the same wheel setup (but different wheels).
Good familiar things:
- Single swept back spreaders! That looks normal at least.
- Traveller driven boat. Yay, this suits me fine. The traveller sits just in front of the wheels and is a "set the sheet for the right twist and play the traveller" setup.
It looks massive, the track measures 3mtrs across, it feel like a catamaran. Jam cleat positioned so the helmsman can adjust when singlehanded.
hey shaggy thats a party boat !!!!! whooohoooo wheres the sub woofa going !!!
seriously , that looks awesome . what is the brand / model ?
Hi SandS,
She's a Pogo 12.50, the designer is Finot Conq.
Edit: Its funny, I almost forgot to order speakers! Got too engrossed in the sailing bits ..
wow , just googled the pogo 12.5 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 24 ish knotts !!!!!! double wowowohoooo !!!
This is a good linky
You are going to be grinning from ear to ear when you get the "Fusion" going Shaggy.
With a yacht that goes like that I think you will need to get your MOB drill down pat.
Hi Cisco,
I admit it, I have been avidly following the MOB thread with interest :)
Started on my mast fittings and picked up my little red Bukh
The leg has new seals fitted and sail drive cones are slipping ,motors done roughly 3000 hours the previous owner said it has no oil leaks and he flush it out with fresh water. Ill tuck her away for a few months ,next years project
Select to expand quoteLibran said..
you wouldn't want to rely on that lot to haul yourself aloft!
No way
if I do my mast right this time I wont have to I would not use a halyard any way .
They might have to come down next winter any way . Ive a lot to do on the hard next winter
