Select to expand quotecisco said..
HG02 said..
Had a couple of cans of spinach and pulled the motor /gear box back out of the engine bay .
Strewth HG. You couldn't help your self could you??
Well now that you have it out you are going to put the DV 24 in aren't you????????????????
Yes Cisco the BW 6 fits so its on for the dv24 
There's a Beta thread in here some where Cisco
Select to expand quotecisco said..madmission said..
Many thanks to cisco
Today i recovered my vintage VDO sumlog
I am glad it is working for you mate and like I said, you can have the thru hull fitting and blank when I slip next. Happy to help.
Thanks Cisco
That would be great
I went out to do some more restoration work on our Cole [getting close to launching] to find our bulkhead compass had leaked most of it's fluid. I found it has cracking at the base of the float chamber. I've removed it and will try repairing the cracking and re-filling it. I'm not sure what the existing fluid is, and I'm somewhat disturbed by the 'Compass Cannot Be Filled' message cast into the flange.....Might be easier to buy a new one to fit the existing hole if that's possible.
trial fitted the BW6 gear box using the studs and nuts that were fitted on the DV20 every thing fits .
removed the gear box mount and will bead blast then tomorrow at work
Then thought Id have a small power nap before going to the boat and woke up 6 hours later 
Ill remove it and clean and paint and replaces the rear oil seal
Once the motors back in and wired up to the instrument panel Ill bolt up the instrument panel permanently in the mean time Ill remove the rudder for painting and pull the prop shaft and see how straight it is and if it needs replacing or not .
I wont be doing any thing else till this projects complete.
Its a nice spot where I am I can start a sander up at 6 am and not worry about any boats next door for noise or any thing else
Before the tiller goes back on it will get the treatment .
After taking the mast out, replacing all standing and running rigging, all control lines (there is about 200m of rope on an Etchells!), replacing most cleats and pulleys, sanding back the bottom and re-priming and antifouling, I planned to put her back in on the morning of GF day, as yesterday was Opening Day.
Problem was, high tide was 4am!! With 3m of tide down here I need atleast half tide to get her back in so I got up at 3:30am, had her back in the drink by 5:15am!!
All went well, sailed opening day and she went like a dream.
Also notice the cover my brother (who has a HD sewing machine) altered and strengthened a $30 bunnigns tarp), which fitted perfectly and hopefully is tight enough that it last the season.
Sorry no pics but will post later.
I took a mate out to show him my yacht today and got him to help me lift my Walker Bay 8 onto the fore deck to see how it fits.
It fits perfect. Transom hard against the mast and will be lashed off each side to the cabin top grab rails. The bow of it falls short of the anchor bollard about 300 mm and about halfway on the anchor locker lid.
Plenty of room each side to walk around it and should be no problem tacking the head sail over it.
It is a huge goal for me as it means I can take two dinghies when I cruise. The Avon Redcrest in the cockpit locker and the Walker Bay on the bow.
I have a 2.5 hp "Turtle/Rabbit Mariner that is good for both of them so methinks I have to put a sailing rig together for the Walker Bay. Just so haps I have a 6 sq m windsurfer sail and a 5 m w/s mast.
Stay tuned for pics. I am excited.
I think Walker Bay 8's are the most commonly stolen boats around here, closely followed by Avon Redcrests. Especially attractive if they have 2.5 hp Tohatsu's or Mariners!
I can understand the Walkers being stolen. They are a good thing. The Avons are also a good thing but there is not that many of them around to get stolen. I thought mine was one of the last in captivity.
But yes, I am certainly well aware of the need for dinghy security having been a victim of theft before.
started on this gear change lever very firm pivot
Ill add a nyloc nit tomorrow . The pivot now has no friction
I found my oil leak at some time in its past the dip stick tube has been vibrating and broke or fractured and had been repaired along with adding a steel bracket to support the dip stick tube at the gear box mounting bolts . I think originally they never had a extra bracket at the top of the dip stick tube.
Where it had been braise with a bronze welding rod is slightly porous and oil has been slowly weeping from the tube.
On the way around to western port Mangrove and I stopped so I could check the oil just as we entered western port . I had topped it up before we left and there was no need to add gear box oil on that run it takes a while to loose in the short term. The rear gear box seal is not leaking like I thought it had been the dip stick tube was the problem and the oil was running down to the back of the gear box.
Might see if the banjo fitting can be bronzed and A new tube bent up. Ill think on it
In a way Id like to fill the gear box with the correct amount of oil ( the filler is directly on top of the gear box) measure though the filler hole and make the level on the side of the gear box and find a safe spot to drill and tap a BSP tapered thread to add a level plug and do away with the dip stick altogether.
If it could be done on the opposite side of the gear linkage it would be easily seen in my boat and easily ready .
These gear boxes can easily give you a false oil level reading and can be over filled or under filled . Over filled they over heat under fill the same and worse
Select to expand quoteHG02 Said....
In a way Id like to fill the gear box with the correct amount of oil ( the filler is directly on top of the gear box) measure though the filler hole and make the level on the side of the gear box and find a safe spot to drill and tap a BSP tapered thread to add a level plug and do away with the dip stick altogether.
If it could be done on the opposite side of the gear linkage it would be easily seen in my boat and easily ready .
These gear boxes can easily give you a false oil level reading and can be over filled or under filled . Over filled they over heat under fill the same and worse
Way to go HG.
Well, finally after 14 months of not so patient waiting, today Fusion has kissed the water for the first time, albeit in another hemisphere. It is fitting with her heritage she has done so in Brittany.
I think I might just open a bottle, get quietly drunk and just gaze at the photo for the next couple of hours
Very nice Shaggy
She looks more of a racer than a cruiser
I notice on their web site there is a tiller steer version
Just wondering what made you decide go for wheel over tiller
Regards Don
Thx guys!
Don, you're right, its heritage stems from the Open 40's, the mould is the same as the Pogo 40s2 which is Pogo's racer version, but the 12.50 gets a much higher freeboard and cabin height,and an interior!
The 40s is a fair bit different, with things like water ballast, no interior, carbon spreaders, fixed keel, lighter etc.
I think because I really wanted a single hander, in hindsight it's probably logical I ended up with an Open 40 design, I didn't think when I started looking around this is what I would end up with though. Fingers crossed it sails ok!
Regards the wheels, this was a really tough call. As a purist,I wanted a tiller, but in short:
-Co-owner hasnt done much sailing, and was more comfortable with a wheel.
- I want to use it for corporate work, ie: taking out clients, and they really get a kick out of holding onto a wheel, a tiller seems to scare the non seasoned yachties!
- For long haul type work, I am more comfortable with a wheel than sitting sideways. The 12.50 has a single loong tiller, so you didn't have much feel with the tiller.
I hope I've done the right thing,time will tell I suppose
Hi Shaggy
If you intend to sail her single handed there is a fair distance from the helm to the winches
When you tack while single handed do you intend to let the autohelm steer while you play with the winches
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
Hi Shaggy
If you intend to sail her single handed there is a fair distance from the helm to the winches
When you tack while single handed do you intend to let the autohelm steer while you play with the winches
Regards Don
You are spot on Don,it's a massive cockpit. The only way to do it was make sure I got as good an autohelm as I could afford (ended up with NKE) , and this is one of the challenges I am looking forward to trying to master!
My PSS seal showed up today
I measured out 0.5 of a liter of oil and did a estimated measurement down the side of the gear box Bukh recommend 0.4 of a liter this is slightly over at 0.5 but Ill live with that. There a splash lubricated gear box
So I drilled and tapped a BSPT thread and used the filler plug as my drain plug and I had a BSPT plug which is used as the level plug where the Biro is pointing
I cut the dip stick so its just a plug now and have used it as my filler plug on top of the gear box
For me its a far better solution than waiting for a dipstick tube to break or leak when at sea
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
Hi HG
Any chance of a photo of you shaft seal
Regards Don
Hi HG,
Excuse my ignorance, but what is a BSPT thread? I am thinking UNC and UNF , is this a thread dimension? Or am I way off track?
Select to expand quoteShaggybaxter said..
Hi HG,
Excuse my ignorance, but what is a BSPT thread? I am thinking UNC and UNF , is this a thread dimension? Or am I way off track?
BSPt the T is for tapered thread so as you screw the plug into the threaded hole it is tapered and locks and seals
B = british S= standard P= pipe T= tapered
so its a British standard pipe thread with a taper
where as a BSP would have a straight thread
The reason I chose the BSPT was the surface where I drilled into the gear box did not have a nice flat surface for a O ring or brass washer to seal the oil from coming out of the gear box housing
and the tapered plug will seal against the gear box housing
