STC beautiful conditions there. I can't remember the last time I had glass like that. And your previous pics where you live in a fairly populated
area of the US and you can get a glassy nice wave with only a couple out there to share with. Do the sleek grey fellas with the sharp teeth keep the crowds in check?
Some civil disobedience at Black Rock this morning...some downwinders wait for no man...and this was one of them!
I hereby declare the Honourable DJ Peterson mid-week downwinding season...OPEN!!!
Love how you lay that out. I have always been in awe of these A teamers who show up when it the spot goes to that epic level and just sit deep and score. Those days the spot fills up with these guys, who then pretty much control the lineup. When the spot reverts back to B status these guys disappear and leave to us.
Unfortunately I am very much a B team or maybe half way between the two. The A team lip looks like it is a foot thick. Beating would be an understatement especially now if you had your SUP in the mix as well.
Happy to be on the B team, surfing with the A team has knobs on it in my experience - a lot more competitive among that level of surfing.
They are awesome to watch none the less!
Cracking pics STC, looks real peaceful.
I surfed metro beach break this morning, had to pinch myself, no one out, had it to myself with chest high runners when you picked the right one.
Yesterday was the busiest I had seen it and expected the same but it wasn't to be, thanks Huey!
On a side note been practicing paddling on my smaller board, got some advice on bending the knees, really helped, alas now my lower back is tight, is this as a result of paddle technique now?? Have not had this on higher volume boards before but noticed it with this board
Allowed back on the water as of today! 35 mins was enough. 20 into it,short rest then back.
No I wasnt doing 100 push ups a day during confinement!
Great to have a keen daughter. After 2 months of confinement she was coming no matter what the weather was like. Even the rain didn't stop her. Need to get a new paddle for her!
Sit down paddle at Ventnor, first time on the water after a back hurty thing a couple of weeks ago.
Brilliant weather.
Local Sydney beaches so busy at moment . A nightmare . Stressful . Must be because local sport is still canceled . Felt like peak of summer out there today . 3 waves in 90 mins. But many have no etiquette and paddle for everything . Seeing 3 or 4 people on a wave is madness
Shame to hear of the crowd struggles Gboots, I had the opposite the other day.
The swell dropped off but I found a nice clean peak at dawn and had it to myself for about 30min before sharing it with a bloke on a Mal and a couple of blokes on softboards for another 30min. Beautiful waves that had great shape.
Bit of local knowledge on the shape of the different stretches of the beach is paying dividends lately