My local beachie early this morning. We had a horror run of strong onshores last week, which seems to have piled the sand into a new bank. Just me and one other out for 2 hours
What part of vicco there ?
Apologies Supper - been off the forum for a few weeks and only just saw your post. Lorne main beach (not exactly a super secret spot!). Actually had quite a few offshore days with swell around this part of the coast this summer - quite unusual
Cheers copper ! Itts a nice bit of coast down there i scored the point a few years ago not overly crowded !
I've been surfing on my Hypernut on the days with swell, whilst my Spice's busted fin box is getting fixed. The forecast on Sunday for the local exposed spots was great, but the spot I decided on has quite a fat and lazy wave on the high tide. I surfed at the same spot on the previous day (slightly smaller and wonky at around 3-4 with cross-shore wind) on my Hypernut and I knew that it was time to bring out the cheat code - the 10.2 Wedge. Approx 5 foot at 12s with offshore wind is not an every day occurrence, sadly, so I had to make the most of it.
I've not been out on the Wedge in anything over 2 foot for 11 months and I have to admit that I've forgotten how good it actually is. It handled the conditions perfectly and a few good turns off the top were the highlight for me. I got there at first light in the morning at 7am, was in the water by 7:25, and stayed in for nearly 3 hours, until I was just too tired to paddle out again. This is actually a tricky spot on the high tide because of the muddy cliffs which create a very annoying backwash when there is swell.
These photos were taken after the session. I was so tempted to get back into my wetsuit, even though the swell was dropping, but I was too tired and reluctantly decided to spend the rest of Sunday with the wife.
Seb ..reluctantly spend some time with the wife....what's said on the forum stays on the forum
I shout yew and give her a shaka when I am leaving, so she knows what's up and that I might be gone for a while.
My buddy Ray goes full tilt at my home break on Cape Cod!
Zero fear at 62 years old, but pays a price.
Ray usually spends a few months a year on the injured reserve list as a result of his charging.
I got substantially less at my winter spot in Florida... but I was toasty warm
My buddy Ray goes full tilt at my home break on Cape Cod!
Zero fear at 62 years old, but pays a price.
Ray usually spends a few months a year on the injured reserve list as a result of his charging.
I got substantially less at my winter spot in Florida... but I was toasty warm
Cape Cod pumping yet again. Each time I come on here there's more pics of Rick & friends getting shacked. Meanwhile, no solid groundswell at home for me in what feels like an eternity ?????
Paddle excursion with the Miss Hawaii Girls at Blue Planet Adventure Company on the Anahulu River in Hale'iwa last weekend:
Tofino last Thursday with my friend Bob. No girls in bikini but a friend lady paddler in 5/4...not quite teh same effect!
Luc it was good to see you and your wife again in Tofino. You were the inspiration for me to get out in the water a couple of times. In the winter it is often difficult to find the energy to suit up and go out. Your enthusiasm is much appreciated. Toby our young dog loved seeing you again. Cheers Bob
Luc it was good to see you and your wife again in Tofino. You were the inspiration for me to get out in the water a couple of times. In the winter it is often difficult to find the energy to suit up and go out. Your enthusiasm is much appreciated. Toby our young dog loved seeing you again. Cheers Bob
Always nicer to go out with friends. See all of you soon...maybe early December if I can.
Thanks, was a great session and it all came together. Although, got greedy on the next one and got humbled on the inside! Second pic is on my new Casey Revolution (inspired by vids of Andrew Cassidy and Beau Nixon) further along the break - a more mellow wave.
Last Saturday, clean and sizey, but a bit wonky.
This is not me, I only had a short session, still on the injured list.
Anyway, if this is you I have a few more pics if interested.
Are there any good places around Safety Bay or Point Peron WA? Hoping to get out sometime soon, but not into sup surf yet, out with the wife for a cruise or so..
Got lucky with a video from a friend. Having little to no views of myself it's a treat. Some of the lefts were staying open but this decided to keep me out. The reason I head back on the right foam is to get to the longer but easier path back to the peak. Beachbreaks are a biatch without a duckdive in the repertoire.
small day on LBI NJ... leftover swell..... Riding the Quatro Glide 8'6. Waves were bigger the day before rode the the Sunova SP25 with Quabba fins.... that board and setup are magic!
Today I SUPed ... in the mist.
Too bad the cam batteries failed, so only some meh waves were recorded.
Today I SUPed ... in the mist.
Too bad the cam batteries failed, so only some meh waves were recorded.
Fin setup:
that's a really interesting fun setup. How does it perform?
that's a really interesting fun setup. How does it perform?
It is my favorite. It is faster and looser than a traditional setup. These are size M fins, small for my weight (97kg), but this board has thin rails that do not need big fins to provide hold, so I can reduce them to get more speed... and the rails work even better at speed, a virtuous circle. The setup above is for my "max glide & speed" board. I also use the glass version, not carbon, as I feel a bit of flex helps reduce drag in better keeping the fin in the water flow.
Side fins provide hold, the raked part of the traditional template keeps holding through all kind of trajectories
The center fin has less drag than a traditional template, and also frees the tail, you do not have the added latency of the raked part, especially at low speed (top turns), but keeps hold at speed where it is needed as it still has depth. A bit like spitfire wings that were used in WWII planes that provided a manageable stalling.
I use bigger fins (L) for my "vertical surfing" SUPs, more drag but more hold to be able to push harder on the fins to tighten turns:
I use carbon sides to push on them and have a direct feel, with glass rear for looseness and speed.
On my fish for slow & weak waves, I use rear fins with less depth to avoid fins gaining too much hold at speed, that I find can lead to tracking in quads. Small sides for more speed for horizontal surfing.
A rule of thumb is to picture the area covered by a fin in a second as a measure of the fin lift. A tall fin covered area will increase more with speed than for a low aspect ratio fin.
And on my SUP for small hollower waves for vertical surfing, a compromise:
Note that FCS is now also using an elliptical outline in the center fin of their most advanced design, the H4.
At 2:01
Thanks colas,
It is always interesting to read your fin threads... I learn from them!
I may start cutting down some of my Quobba's to try in the rear.