Meeting the surgeon tomorrow but he won't be doing the operation too expensive so I'll be off to GCUH during the week.
Morning Breezers (Technically Afternoon)
Had a fun wave this morning, was crowded but pretty relaxed vibe out with some nice peelers over the reef, man was I rusty though!
Have not been surfing a whole heap lately, forgot that it takes a little bit to ease into it and for the muscle memory to take its place.
Want to try more trad. longboarding but this may be a little way off going off this mornings effort - reverted back to the race off the bottom tactic instead of the highline stall/turn to try and set up the cross step.
The wave I surfed is a really good nose riding wave but I was all at sea, probably had the wrong fin(s) in as well - 8" FCS Soul Flex with side bites, I feel I need to invest in a good 9" Dolphin Fin.
Going off of the theory that the best surfer out there is the one having the most fun - I was the best surfer out there ha ha
Fun day ahead first knee surgeon then two removals from the head a whole bunch of stitches with a sore head coming my way.
Wow Dr lacey you know how to put out a good vibe for the morning welcome...
Good morning all.... enjoy the world before the world enjoys you
I saw the towball......he did this big belly flop off his shortest 666.....at Centres when not even paddling for a wave. It was fun to watch I was pretty much a winner......did get totally destroyed by one big peak though (the waves there do this "i am breaking.....I am not breaking.....I am nearly breaking" thing)......and they shift around
Quite difficult to take good belly flop pics.....will have to try harder :)
Been occasionally good surf during the week.....mostly Red Bus at high tide. Looked at mak in dark today....quite small. Whetu said point was okay.....when tide dropped a bit....but he could have just been infected with weekend madness lol
Got blatantly dropped in on by some old geezer at red bus thursday evening......said to him when paddled out back past him..."seemed to me you were a complete f***ing asshole and dropped in on me" ......he said "i guess i did". He was respectful the rest of the time.....but am sure duncan the kneeboarder can identify him. Bald head and a ridiculous goatee beard. Maybe an aussie accent ?