I bounced off the bottom today on a reef I never hit the bottom on. Winter thick waves. They weren't big - frustratingly small and inconsistent actually - but punchy.
Its nuts isnt it. Some of my longest hold downs have been in smaller than big surf LOL
Back in the water again after my neck injury with a small crowd at my local. 1/2 of which I had beers & a BBQ with yesterday. Was good
Recovery session mate?
haha nah more of a, I have recovered session mate. BBQ lunch was over by 5pm, I went home 1 more beer before dinner. Had Dinner, a jasmin green tea & in bed to watch a movie before crashing at 2130. Woke up fine...Not an allnighter till 5am like I did when I was your age
I bounced off the bottom today on a reef I never hit the bottom on. Winter thick waves. They weren't big - frustratingly small and inconsistent actually - but punchy.
Its nuts isnt it. Some of my longest hold downs have been in smaller than big surf LOL
One of my heaviest wipe outs was about 18 years ago on a 5-6 foot wave at Coronation in Geraldton. Anyone who has surfed there is now choking on their coffee. it's normally a fat mung burger of a wave, but this thing threw on the peak, I fell out of the lip and was smacked around like a red headed step-child, then it tried to drown me. It was solid without being huge, but just nasty. Bare in mind, back then I was 27, fit, fearless and hungry for 12 foot waves down south and yet that wipeout at Corro is one of the "highlights" in my surfing life. Good thing I am anonymous on the 'breeze as no one would have any respect for me if they knew me and read this. "Corro? Pfft...the guys a delusional idiot."
I bounced off the bottom today on a reef I never hit the bottom on. Winter thick waves. They weren't big - frustratingly small and inconsistent actually - but punchy.
Its nuts isnt it. Some of my longest hold downs have been in smaller than big surf LOL
One of my heaviest wipe outs was about 18 years ago on a 5-6 foot wave at Coronation in Geraldton. Anyone who has surfed there is now choking on their coffee. it's normally a fat mung burger of a wave, but this thing threw on the peak, I fell out of the lip and was smacked around like a red headed step-child, then it tried to drown me. It was solid without being huge, but just nasty. Bare in mind, back then I was 27, fit, fearless and hungry for 12 foot waves down south and yet that wipeout at Corro is one of the "highlights" in my surfing life. Good thing I am anonymous on the 'breeze as no one would have any respect for me if they knew me and read this. "Corro? Pfft...the guys a delusional idiot."
I reckon everyone has one of those, they just don't share them
I bounced off the bottom today on a reef I never hit the bottom on. Winter thick waves. They weren't big - frustratingly small and inconsistent actually - but punchy.
Its nuts isnt it. Some of my longest hold downs have been in smaller than big surf LOL
One of my heaviest wipe outs was about 18 years ago on a 5-6 foot wave at Coronation in Geraldton. Anyone who has surfed there is now choking on their coffee. it's normally a fat mung burger of a wave, but this thing threw on the peak, I fell out of the lip and was smacked around like a red headed step-child, then it tried to drown me. It was solid without being huge, but just nasty. Bare in mind, back then I was 27, fit, fearless and hungry for 12 foot waves down south and yet that wipeout at Corro is one of the "highlights" in my surfing life. Good thing I am anonymous on the 'breeze as no one would have any respect for me if they knew me and read this. "Corro? Pfft...the guys a delusional idiot."
I reckon everyone has one of those, they just don't share them
They sure don't,but I'll tell mine.I jumped off the back of Boulders, the next beach south of Lennox Head years ago.I missed timed the sets and got flogged against the rock wall thought I was going to drown,must've looked like a real dickhead,couple of blokes out there hav'in a laugh.But when I got out I caught the last set wave after sitting in the line up for a bit and got a excellent barrel,one of the longest barrels of my life and the boys who where laughing where now hooooting,haha!...
Aaah...the failed rock jump...love it.
I saw a bloke get flogged 300m or so down a rock point a few years back. Jumped off in front of a wave instead of on to it. Got pushed onto the rocks, sucked, pushed on, sucked back...all the way down the point and never in deeper than waist to chest high water (other than when he was in ankle deep water). I waited until he had walked back up the point - bleeding from multiple cuts and abrasions and his board was trashed. It was very funny because he wasn't seriously hurt. Me? I paddled out through the channel. That rock jump is sketchy and only saves 30s or so.
Any other deep dark secrets fellas?
First and Second Bays at Coolum this afternoon.Has dropped off a bit but still some solid sets coming through.
not me,but some crew were killing today. bennetts on the clubbie ski was the standout boss
Yewww! Seeing some insane photos today of your side of the world !
Just been for a surf locally. Two in two days. Water still warm they tell me at 11.5 degrees. Joy. Swell has backed off a lot since yesterday. Nothing like what your boys have been getting. Wetsuit slowing loosening up. But still feel like the Michellen man in my booties and hoodie and 5/4mm. Helps you to surf like a kook
Just been for a surf locally. Two in two days. Water still warm they tell me at 11.5 degrees. Joy. Swell has backed off a lot since yesterday. Nothing like what your boys have been getting. Wetsuit slowing loosening up. But still feel like the Michellen man in my booties and hoodie and 5/4mm. Helps you to surf like a kook
Hang in there Ted, Its character building!
i like this pic...some charger from south narra
Dunno why he is bothering to crouch. Stand tall and proud, son.
Preferrably with arms wide.
Sick pic.
Looks like you landed on your feet there Ted. Pretty spot.
Great photo that one Chrispy.
I think this is the same spot
And for scaling purposes that board is a 12ftr..
i like this pic...some charger from south narra
Dunno why he is bothering to crouch. Stand tall and proud, son.
Preferrably with arms wide.
Sick pic.
Does anyone know where this pic came from? I want to use it tomorrow in a piece we are writing but need to reference it. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks fellas.
As good as the local gets...
And a few shots and clips from the Last 3 days around here.
Monday
www.newcastleherald.com.au/story/3951473/surfers-enjoy-big-monday-video-photos/?cs=305
www.theherald.com.au/story/3953794/big-swell-keeps-rolling-into-newcastle-photos-video/?cs=305#slide=2
www.facebook.com/ThrowingBucketsonline/
Thats Epic SP
Drip i reckon that dude CHarging North Narra would love to stand tall but is hangin on for dear life!
And that charger on the bombie...im...Im calling he's riding a 9'0" McTavish fireball.!!!YEW!!
You guys must be loving this , swell, offshores Banks, reef and points..YEW!
As good as the local gets...
That looks like a point break to me - Dixon never looked that good when I lived in Newy Well I am assuming that is Dixon - but things can be deceiving when they look like that !
Thats Epic SP
Drip i reckon that dude CHarging North Narra would love to stand tall but is hangin on for dear life!
And that charger on the bombie...im...Im calling he's riding a 9'0" McTavish fireball.!!!YEW!!
You guys must be loving this , swell, offshores Banks, reef and points..YEW!
The point off North Narra? Sick.
I was there a few years ago and thought it looked like it would be fun with a bit more size on it.
I didn't mean that much size though. MUMMY!!!
Whale Beach - taken from Jonas. Looks absolutely huge !
Nice solid six footer. Bit fat though.