Where did you surf today?

Better than any waves I have had the last month!

Grab a couple for me buddy, I'm feeling like I'm all rusted up.

shoulder high perfection on Penguin reef last Wednesday / Thursday / Friday / into Saturday morning . First time out for the spring in boardies

Forecast looking good for next 3 days . Still a few sharks hanging around ( 4 meter made the front page of the local paper circling a boat 2 kms offshore , white pointer in Devonport River Mouth last week ) .

Still in a springy here, could have worn boardies/rashy yesterday.....few fun waves this morning, wind was all over the shop but light. Had my own little bubble away from all the 666ers & LB's. Surfed the mardi gra V1 & then swapped to the V2 when the onshore kicked in...just making the most of it before summer hits

Just got back from some head high waves. At first it was a bit windy then the wind backed off and the tide went out and it was not too bad. A bit of a crowd there for a weekday but mostly locals for a change. Got caught inside for a while which is a bummer on the barge. Off to the skin specialist now to check out my melon. I'm sure he's going to want to take a few pieces out of me. He will tell me to wear a hat surfing but I think I'd rather wear a helmet.

Smh - I surf a lot when in Indo - normally at least twice a day in good waves. When in Oz I do not bother anymore. When I am here I work my nuts out so when I am back I have some time to play - sad state of affairs ! I would like to surf more often but can not face it anymore. I have got picky. Unless it's uncrowded n good I am happy to wait it out and work. When it's on I down tools and make the most of it. Balance I call it ! Sydney is one of the worst places to be a surfer unless it's your only choice and you need to live in a big city - then it is epic. Otherwise it's crap.

I think south coast NSW or VIC is the go on the eastern seaboard as a longer term residential play for waves. Just need to have a job that allows you to live in those locations and take advantage of the conditions when they present themselves. It can be done but it does not happen over night. Needs to be a well thought out strategy.

Chrispy has been flat out lately - he probably surfs the most normally but his life is changing. I know Pup n Mick rack up the sessions like they are going out of fashion. They have showed me round their locals and it's all good. The drip probably surfs the best waves most often out of anyone. You are always out there.

Mick and smh are inspirational for their keenness. 20 years ago a mate told me that each year it gets a little bit harder to keep the grommet Stoke and that's why people drift away from surfing. They surf less, because they are surfing less it becomes harder, because it's harder it becomes less enjoyable so it becomes easier to pass on marginal conditions, or big clean conditions. So I took that on board.

Mark Richard's maxim "These are the good old days because it's a little less crowded than next year and the year after that" also lets me deal with crowds. I don't look back crowd wise (that's depressing) but look forward and be happy with what I have.

This was my first wave last year after coming across the top end. It was three months between surfs. I was so pumped and excited to be in the water even if I could barely catch them and the guy on the eleven foot log made me want to smash him out of sheer jealousy. Two weeks later I had an East coast appropriate board.








A bad surf is generally better than no surf I find. Having spent long periods out with injury (probably a year of the last five) I appreciate being able to surf.

And without wanting to get all mystical, surfing is my happy place that renews me. In my life, it's my space.

Go find a crappier wave without a crowd, Ted. I had a ball in onshore Alley at Narrabeen last year (like really onshore) and found a little peak in southern Mona vale. They were all crap but my crap.

Pep talk finished.

Lunchtime surf midway beach - shoulder high eastern ground swell , one other shortboarder out - best peak is the right handed into the corner


Afternoon surf preservation bay , waist high , 5 shortboarders, 2 SUPs, 1 longboarder , about 100 nippers and 1 surf boat crew - sitting on the best peak on the beach - was fun after they all packed up and went home .

A mate of mine is retired, not much older & fussy about the surf. Not just the surf itself, but the number of people in the water & what they're surfing. I know he's going to point out something negative & for a time I tried to point out the positives to him. For most of the year for me its, "if this was summer you would be frothing over this". Its usually better than it looks & an actual wave is an actual wave. That sure beats no waves

Of course I would feel different if I could buckle down, get the work done & head back to some surfing paradise