Hit the beach early with the camera in hand as wanted to make sure this dreaded strain of the man flu had passed me good and proper before getting the wettie back on. It was a nice morning.
I thought that conditions would be perfect at a semi-secret beach (WA style) not too far away. As I wandered down the track things were starting to look good.
Not many in the water and sadly none of any real talent to take any action shots.
Some lovely waves were coming through and fingers crossed there are still a few for me to snaffle tom morning.
We seem to be seeing more of these this far south this winter
Had a cracker morning, great waves & great company. Good to finally catch up with ya Boof, couple of crackers you got, hopefully plenty of more surfs ahead together. Lacey's right, mac was surfing really well today on the cruiser & the new tint looks great. Lacey was playing godfather zipping around catching every bump that came through & trying to direct us around to the better sections. Caught at least 4 or 5 rides from LM right into the beach in front of the rocks at Greeny, great fun!
We even had a few breeze party waves, one with mac Lacey & I all on the same wave carving it up, then at the end mac & I both took off on the same wave & rode it side by side at times only a foot or two away from each other, we rode like that for probably 100-120m all the way in, a great way to top off a great morning.
Just on that last wave Vanders is talking about,I took the high line and Vanders the low,looking down from only a foot and a half was an insane view weird almost,I've never had that much fun going straight thanks Vanders I couldn't stop smiling all the way in.
For anyone who has not surfed with Vanders,I highly recommend while on a wave to have a look behind you every now and then,because he pops up from nowhere and all a sudden he is right up your tail,does not say a word or make a sound he just appears from nowhere. Lacey was rounding the pack up like sheep all morning at one stage Vanders was running block for Lacey and I and we didn't let him know it because he was doing a fine job rock hopping sitting the deepest.Of course it was only a matter of time before he because a victim of those nasty sharp LM rocks and split some blood for the team,thanks Vanders,best advice I've ever given anybody was for Vanders to get that 10 foot board a whole lot of fun and he is surfing the house down,hope the next board advice goes to plan mate.Oh well I get to do it all again today with Boofy and Blair I just hope the swell hangs in there but I think its dropped.
Ankle to waist mush. Tried to practise cross stepping,that failed. Was watching sea world people dragging a fibreglass whale around practising saving it from the shark nets,idiots. Water was chilly at a brisk 19c.
Paddled out to some 1ft perfection on the big board...within 30 mins some beautiful 3ft hollow sets were coming in and I was on the wrong board!! Had a ball though.......caught some of the best waves yet on the big girl - stoked
Head height onshore poop all to myself that I raced down the beach for after getting some stitches out...was ok after being out of the water for 10 days
Today: I surfed Bells with Tha Dogman, and Ross Clarke Jones. Ross & Dogman were have a "throwing buckets" competition!
Did he have a paddle with him?
I just got back from a cracking 2nd surf - took the right board this time
Good work Ted.
Nah, Ross was on his little thruster with RedBull & Quik stickers! He's been getting into the C-Drive fins actually. He likes the Medium Size fins.
PS - Ross has been surfing Bells & Winki heaps this winter... Or maybe him & I are just on the time schedule...
He would be riding those boards that I want - the lovely super deep concaves from the great man - where are those pics you promised
I meant was Dogman carrying a stick?
Very close mate, next one Nth with a view to transferring Sth in 2016...looking forward to building a 2nd custom build, should get it right this time lol. I've now spent about 17 hours researching what HWS & home heating solution I should go with. But anyway...just checked, winds southerly atm. Hopefully it holds out till mid morning tomorrow & we'll have some waves
Took a gamble that it might pulse on the incoming tide. Some super fun waves on the longboard. Very happy,no pics left my phone at home. Just missed the farmer he was on his way out when I got there. Snobbed the chrispy
Surfed cracking 3 foot peelers at my local with one other guy...water is freezing at the moment...had a icecreamy from the jump
Hows that new board going Tux? You enjoying her? 3ft ripping rights is a great opportunity to blood your first born
Yeah bro its going sweet...but I think I may need to change the cant angle on the fins (Beauty of pro box) when I get to indo....its got a real squirt of juice coming off the top....
Wasnt today but I had a great couple of surfs on the weekend in Phuket. Totally not what I expected. 3-4 feet fun, glassy beachies, sunny, clear water. 5 people in the water... Stoked!
I was riding a board glassed with Pineapple leaves (seriously)
^^^Awesome news We're staying at Kata Beach Phuket for 8 days in 6 weeks on the way to Japan. Fingers crossed for some swell & offshore wind while we're there too