More pics Ted! ...
Sunday at Winki was lots of fun. Overhead sets... Down through Lowers I was regularly getting the back of the board barreled... Wave tapping me on the waist, as I was racing along...
Never in my entire surfing life have I had the term- the back of my board was getting barrelled
I feel enriched
+1 LOL.....& yes more pics from the Indo boys please...great pic Ted
Solid swell today, very consistent but you had to be picky. Wave would either be sh1t or epic. It rarely barrels at my local, but the back of my board...& the front got barrelled a couple of times. Although I didn't make it out of one & got absolutely smashed ripping off some awesome back flips as I got worked...only 8 out
Well we have had brilliant waves for a few days now,besides death to chrispy Sunday.
Yesterday was really glassy and fast. Blow the take off you blew the wave. So much fun.......except there was the biggest crowd in the water I have seen in so long. I thought I was at yum cha there was some many drop ins and so called sharing amongst friends.
Today started out badly,very straight and about 2ft. Then the tide dropped a bit and for the next two hours it was 3-4 on the sets and hollow.....still some straight ones, but most were a big smile at the end. Then it went to **** again
Have surfed the new board and I was wishing at times I had my shorty or the bee sting. The fat beast has opened up what she can do and I'm really surprised. My laziness has let me test the limits. Pretty chuffed actually
4-5 foot left hander. Hideous rip that even the longboard struggled to conquer.
I surfed a HP longboard last week while up north. I didn't really get it - no glide, turned well (but not as well as a midlength), paddled okay ( but not as well as my hybrid thing), would probably go well in solid surf (but not as well as a gun). It just struck me as a bit weird. It was an ex-comp board - 9'2" - and since I am not a comp surfer maybe that explains it all.
Scored some great waves with a couple of boogers at my old local this morning...got some fun rights for a change