alley looked like it was on when we were training this morning unfortunately when I get home its on shore.
long board into hollow waves. pros you can get going and set up earlier
cons , get it wrong its chin music with a whole lotta board.
good boards all the time or good luck, but the greenie is the board for these conditions if one is going to use a long board.
however a good short board generates so much more speed in the hollows and 'fits' better
ps sunday morning was so mucccccccccch fun
alley looked like it was on when we were training this morning unfortunately when I get home its on shore.
long board into hollow waves. pros you can get going and set up earlier
cons , get it wrong its chin music with a whole lotta board.
good boards all the time or good luck, but the greenie is the board for these conditions if been on if one is going to use a long board.
however a good short board generates so much more speed in the hollows and 'fits' better
ps sunday morning was so mucccccccccch fun
I got a couple of barrels by mistake up north on the longboard this year. I was just trying to get away from lip to avoid snapping my board and wasn't fast enough to get an exit door at Centres.
It wouldn't pump, nor did it really glide fast enough and that was a whole lot of nose to try and keep high, and a whole lotta tail trying to ride the foamball (god forbid).
Why was I out there? Ballsed up and didn't wait for a set before paddling out and thought it was 2-3 foot peelers. Instead it 4-5' slightly west swell dredgers. Even Tombies was uncomfortably for the longboard and thats normally just that little bit slower and more of a turney wave at that size. I just felt relief my board got out unscathed.
I couldn't imagine deliberately using a longboard to go barrel hunting on your sand bottom runners. I guess, like Macaha was saying, sometimes it is just too shallow and fast for a longboard despite the frequent days of longboard perfection.
its not that heavy.
its no kirra put it that way
it was toss up on the day. kept thinking about going in for the shortie but I also knew it was going to fill up pretty quickly too
Big drop in swell today. Bailed home & grabbed the 666, but wished I'd taken the log out coz it picked up a bit before the wind came in. Bit of fun, nice day
Got a few little knee to waist high runners today. Banks are pretty bad at the moment but it improved as the tide got a bit higher. Better than nothing
Working and staying at bronte nice little n/east swell but crap banks at both bronte and glamarama plenty of punters out though walked around to Bondi and sculptures by the sea is on some great works and some twisted minds -worth a look if you're Southside
Banks seem pretty crap in Manly as well Ricardo. Might have to do sculpture trip this weekend - have to be early though to avoid the crowds !!
Working and staying at bronte nice little n/east swell but crap banks at both bronte and glamarama plenty of punters out though walked around to Bondi and sculptures by the sea is on some great works and some twisted minds -worth a look if you're Southside
Anyone see the surfboard cubes at sculpture by the sea a year or two ago?
A couple of old boards of mine finished up in there, but the artist (a mate David Brophy) refused to cut up two because they were in too good nick for old boards. Eighties sprays were his go to boards. They were exhibited in Cottesloe and Sydney.
That goofy at the 1:55 mark showed some real class. Nice execution.
No Drip - did not surf. Too busy with work at the moment. Although to be honest this is the worse time of the year to be on the east coast. So I am not really thinking about surfing at the moment. Back home next week and will be ready to make up for 3 weeks without.
This is a pretty accurate description of the last few days
A steep rise in short-period SSE swell set in a little later than Wednesday’s projections; remaining small and windblown at about 2ft across south facing breaks throughout Thursday preceding a late push that began to show across Sydney after 5.00pm. Early Friday morning revealed a junky 3 to 5ft sea-state that left little to be desired. As mentioned on Wednesday this episode is the by-product of a broad surface trough and embedded low that’s been drifting slowly northeast across the Tasman Sea over the last 24 hours or so, supporting a short-range SSE/SE fetch in conjunction with an anteceding high pressure ridge.
And sadly that is pretty much what things look like as a general rule at this time of the year over here.
Yep 2.5 hours of great fun longboard waves the bank was working much better this morning.
So much so ducked home for a board change,log time,see you cool cats later
Didn't surf the last couple of days it was sh1t, although yesterday was probably better than this morning. I scored an awesome tree & a couple of bushes to plant in the garden that I've been on the look out all year coz I know they go great in coastal conditions. Rivetting stuff I know, I also got some vege's to get going.
Got all psyched for a surf this morning after watching this Sarges Surfing Scrapbook style video. Got down the beach just as the oldies had finished their swim, yep pretty farken early. Thought I'd beat the crowds, but seems like I was the only one that thought there might be a wave today. Kind of was but there wasn't...
Great vid though with some SW action just after the very beginning, then all over the place. Makes me laugh in places where Ando is like the old man in this group almost rolling his eyes at their immature behavior http://www.coastalwatch.com/surfing/14988/video-kai-neville-s-cluster-b-sides-are-really-really-good
Just got back from some ok waves around head high. Paddled up the beach and rode this little left at kiddies corner. Nice little walls and a few noserides . Paddled back down the middle and got a few and got one in amongst the weekend crowd to come in on. Pretty happy. Just boardies and rashie today
No surf today but went in SDRs board store and had a drool. Could easily buy 4 or 5 of the shooters in there if I had some money.
No surf today but went in SDRs board store and had a drool. Could easily buy 4 or 5 of the shooters in there if I had some money.
Green 8.0 gun as you walk in is cool
We went for a second surf.we didnt talk or have coffee.
We gave a nod and ppfffff to each other only
Cobra would have be impressed
We dont want any forum sharing stuff or the likes off
Took the log probably the wrong choice for the second surf of the day still some nice ones on offer,clean and long.
I saw a guy who looked like an older version of MF
Wasn't sure what the winds and swell would bring so I drove down with a fish in case it was smaller than expected and clean, a gun in case it was bigger than expected and clean, a longboard in case it was as expected (3-4 and slightly onshore), and a SUP in case it was raging onshore and I would just scoot back into the bay for a flat water paddle around some rocks.
It was a bit bigger than expected and I spent most of my time going left. Wind came and the SUPs came out. When boofhead fell off his board just standing next to me and speared across my bow I knew it was time to go in and leave them to it.
LM then snapper then LM took the poolroom board out for its mayden voyage should have taken the Noserider instead
LM then snapper then LM took the poolroom board out for its mayden voyage should have taken the Noserider instead
a one foot day on high tide you and I might think- okay its a nose rider day.
not so our prez of all things long boarding.
an inspired choice of the pinnacle was a master stoke.
hahahahaha
LM then snapper then LM took the poolroom board out for its mayden voyage should have taken the Noserider instead
a one foot day on high tide you and I might think- okay its a nose rider day.
not so our prez of all things long boarding.
an inspired choice of the pinnacle was a master stoke.
hahahahaha
Seriously Lacey you really need to experiment sometime I was happy the poolroom board got wet and it went well so I'm happy.
When are you going to Noosa Mac ?
Wednesday Scotty bright and early all going well.First Point mentioned its going to be crap.oh well I'll have to look for some new boat shoes
Up before 4am this morning to catch the wind before it swung, 2hr drive, pull up top of the dune and its pumping. No one out head high and howling offshore, long fast hollow rights.
I nip back into town to drop the kids off at the pool and head back up the beach, gone no longer than 20mins. The wind has dropped and it's now looking a bit wobbly and hungover. Then within another 10 mins the wind has gone SW to Nth and it just looks like ****.
All of a sudden it swings offshore again and starts to clean up, line up and tube again. Get straight out there and get a couple of average ones and then it swings southerly again and it's all over and all in less than an hour.
Really weird morning.
3 foot. Longboard again. Got hated by a local in the car park - "Your not bringing the cargo ship out here" - and promptly ignored him with a smile and "You know that's all I'm surfing out there."
Still a few solid ones about which is really surprising as the swell is 1.2metres and falling. I caught two waves in the session that were around double overhead and a few more went through unridden
Just got back. Waist to shoulder high and not too bad. I saw something cruising out the back. Pretty sure it was a shark. There was a bird hovering around above it.
Back out there again today. There was a mix of north east and south east swells. Waves ok on low tide. Shared a peak with 2 others. Still a bit spooked about yesterday but still got a few. Boardies and rashie again.
Not long back from a really nice session. 50 meter peeling lefts into the corner of the beach and one other guy on a mal sharing it. Got heaps of waves around knee to waist high. Southerly just came up now . No surfing tomorrow so will go fishing instead.