Where did you surf today?

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Ted the Kiwi said...
How did the Nugget go? You a fan?

TBHI couldn't really tell ya as I caught bugger all. But I think it'll be great. Dave Basher is the man to speak to as he has owned a few and surfed them many many times. I am so unfit its embarrassing but family takes priority so my surf time has disappeared for the minute.

Amazing what looks to crap from a distance turns out to be good.
Got some "low tide love" at a local here today.
From the carpark it looked like it was close outs on the outside bank...saw a couple of guys make a reasonable wave, down the beach a bit, so No1 son and I left the l/boards on the roof and went short and hoofed it some 200-300mtr down the beach.
Far out...stoked..was some of the best small wave shore break surfing had for a long time
Low crowd + Warm Water + Sunshine + 3 Ft + Peak Splitting = friggin aaawweeessoommee

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smh said..

climber said..

Amazing what looks to crap from a distance turns out to be good.
Got some "low tide love" at a local here today.
From the carpark it looked like it was close outs on the outside bank...saw a couple of guys make a reasonable wave, down the beach a bit, so No1 son and I left the l/boards on the roof and went short and hoofed it some 200-300mtr down the beach.
Far out...stoked..was some of the best small wave shore break surfing had for a long time
Low crowd + Warm Water + Sunshine + 3 Ft + Peak Splitting = friggin aaawweeessoommee

Sounds good and very similar to what I had today. It was a mix of east and south east swell . This is the best time of the year I reckon.

Yep SMH....love this time year

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smh said..

climber said..

Amazing what looks to crap from a distance turns out to be good.
Got some "low tide love" at a local here today.
From the carpark it looked like it was close outs on the outside bank...saw a couple of guys make a reasonable wave, down the beach a bit, so No1 son and I left the l/boards on the roof and went short and hoofed it some 200-300mtr down the beach.
Far out...stoked..was some of the best small wave shore break surfing had for a long time
Low crowd + Warm Water + Sunshine + 3 Ft + Peak Splitting = friggin aaawweeessoommee

Sounds good and very similar to what I had today. It was a mix of east and south east swell . This is the best time of the year I reckon.

Defintely the best time of the year - autumn basically is everywhere. Its when I have traditionally had my holidays

Glad to see you had a much better surf than the previous session Climber. How colds the water SMH? You using a wettie yet? I have not ventured near water since I have been back but can fell the urge approaching. Seems people in Sydney wearing a variety of diff rubber instruments - from boardies / rashie combo to full on steamers.

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McHenry said...

Ted the Kiwi said...
How did the Nugget go? You a fan?

TBHI couldn't really tell ya as I caught bugger all. But I think it'll be great. Dave Basher is the man to speak to as he has owned a few and surfed them many many times. I am so unfit its embarrassing but family takes priority so my surf time has disappeared for the minute.

Know what you mean mate, this parenting thing takes up a lot of time..

But geez it's good fun..

Had some little waves at rainbow this morning, getting better as the tide goes out and the mood out there was mellow which made for an enjoyable surf

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Ted the Kiwi said..

MickPC said..

Oh mids 1, I had a feeling you might have been talking about there. That place is about 9th on my favourite Bali wave list mate & only coz its so consistent, handles all tides & easy to reach from the area I like to stay during dry season. Apart from airport rights, most of my favourite waves are on the East coast.

Yeah I know your fav is the other one but you would have enjoyed it that day - if the crowds had been less - I know I would have I am also a fan of your other ones

Can get busy out there, can never really predict the crowds hey...if it is a bit busy, I sit in that place the first time we surfed there together. Have to duckdive the sets & medium size ones when they come through. Trick is to just keep catching waves so your paddling back out on the shoulder, not copping them on the head. A lot of the time the smaller ones racing across the inside reef have much better shape than the ones everyone is chasing on the back or middle bubble & you will have it to yourself

I've dipped out today My foot is killing me. Looks like a heel spur so will have to get it x rayed and maybe a cortisone shot then I'll be back in business.

Afternoon wave, same place different crowd. Still fun little ones, haven't surfed twice in a day since I was a kid.

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Adapt said..
Afternoon wave, same place different crowd. Still fun little ones, haven't surfed twice in a day since I was a kid.

It's like that here. The morning crowd are different faces to the afternoon crowd. I find from around 11 am on to be a good time.

Just under two weeks till i get to have another surf and watching the week ahead at home and its going to be smoking!!!!
At least the Mrs and Kids will get a few.
Hope you guys keep making the most of it, love to see some more pics to keep me sane

Smh - hope the foot heals soon. I have been back in Oz 4 days now and still not made it to the beach. Jeepers I am over working ! Long weekend so probably little chance of me seeing any wave activity. Not even checked the maps - too much other stuff to do sadly. Can not complain though as had lots of high quality waves the weeks before

Declined an invite from the ex member this morning.

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Macaha said..
Declined an invite from the ex member this morning.

you were embarrassed about your fins?

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SP said...
Hope it is big enough to give it a run.
look forward to hearing how it goes

It wasn't big enough the other day, but it was today. It really was designed as a Yallingup gun and today there were waves cracking on the outside North peak. Completely unexpected because of the swell size but some 18-20 faces coming in.

The board paddled really well and got me in early enough. It came off the bottom really really well when I pushed it on rail hard - sort of like a purring V8 that cruises until pushed. Up high for high line speed runs - which is what the longboard wasn't doing too well - it connected sections well and never fell out of the face. In the sucky bits it dropped out of the lip in a controlled way (I didn't mean for that to happen, but pulled really high to avoid people and was there a bit longer than intended so the wave started to break).

On the face - and Yals gets smaller as it goes down the line - it felt stiffer than I expected, but still weaved enough to avoid the crowd down for the long weekend.

I fluffed one take off on a solid one when I spun late and took a few strokes. Without the momentum I didn't get down and going properly and caught some nose rail at the bottom as the wave threw. It's a board for stroking into waves not taking off late. I was absolutely competitive with the Longboarders sitting on the outside peak and it went better than my longboard in medium Yals.

Now for some solid waves...