Pretty serious looking wave there Drip. I just got back from a late one. Semi clean but still a bit bumpy and head high to just overhead. Got a few on the 11 footer . Water temp still pretty good. That was my last surf so signing off now boys for 5 weeks. Hope you all stay safe and get some waves. Best time of the year now I reckon ( around here anyway )
small ,uneven 2ft on the 9.3 ..bit of fun for a hour. I did swap boards with a mate who was on a Outer Islands 9.1 x 22.5 x 3 .... what a dream to ride ...really loose (for a mal) underfoot. Got back on my barge / dog / pig / $&^@* and realised what a bargain he bought for a 0.5K ... super sweet ride that has me wanting
Hungry town here today.
Was met with 9 blokes on the bank at first light and the hassle was as crazy as I've ever seen it.
Got 3 waves and verballed and harassed on each one resulting in me paddling to a close out bank further south.
A really crap morning in the water making me feel unusually flat today.
Geez. No good surfanimal. No fun when the hassle is there
flip side. You still got wet and waves
Me. I surfed small bank 2ft near a hill that was a Bonny idea. Had a great morning
Didn't look too good when I got down to the local this morning, not that I had a look. Fixed a couple of shortboards on the grass, left them to harden & headed out on the longboard. Got about 10 waves before a couple of young blokes came out & the ocean was recovering from its hangover & swell picked up. Got a long one 1/2 way to my car & decided to go grab a shortboard after a few hours. Ended up being a surprisingly fun 4.5 hr session. Good to see winter swells on the horizon
Surfed rainbow with Lacey, Andyroomac and Ghatio some fun waves and great to meet a couple of new faces from seabreeze
The wide bank in between the little groyne & the shark buoy was firing very early so I give it some greenroom treatment got farken busy further you looked up toward the point
Tried to get around to LM but getting thru Greeny was a waste of time - did not be happening unfortunately
look mac has me out looking like some animal. its just then you surf really crowded waves you have to get amongst it or just might as well go in. last two months have been rabid on all the points. super crowds. there are a lot times ive come back in almost no waves at the alley
so maybe, just maybe I might,just might accidently bring that along when its not so crowded.
however if ya go soft people will climb all over if they smell a weakness.
its a bit sad these days. but I do make a point of giving waves away too and yep I get my good share of drop ins too