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Cheers to the fisherman who decided to light up a copper log outside his car whilst camping over night. Walking back up the path not paying attention i managed to walk through his last nights camp fire, right in the centre of the track. Luckily it was not too hot. I saw a couple other nearly do it and then when i questioned him, he denied it, he said it was someone else's. 
He eventually said sorry once i pointed out the wood saw and tools on the ground under his car
Some solid waves coming through at Trigg. Some with nice shape, but there was a fair crowd hassling for them. I ended up 15min north. Unfortunately whilst there was some size and shape it became increasingly straight as time went by. And the weed is still awful.
Yeah, I went a little south of said groups and it was too straight for me... off shore but still 2/10.
Didn't get out till close to 1pm today as I had to get some sleep before tonights night shift. I wasn't expecting much with the swell drop, just went down to roll the shoulders out before work and a bit of a swim. Greeted by perfectly groomed spitting barrels, pick a peak, and no one out (3 blokes had just gotten out after putting in a four hour session).
Yeap, surfed where you surfed Busterfin by the sounds of it. Pretty straight and that backwash messing with it. Could of been so much better if only a couple of other factors lined up. But still good to get in the ocean.
Swell was big but seemed a bit hung over, maybe it was the high tide. Got an absolute flogging on my back hand at a spot near west-end and retired to the pub with tail between my legs.
Some days you have it but some days you dont.
I spoke with him as i was leaving at about 8:20..
Coaching and playing winter sports (plus work of course) has kept me out of the water over the last few weeks. Went down to a Northern reefy yesterday morning and on the first wave I got pitched and landed fair and square on the side of my head; I knew straight away I had ruptured my eardrum. I still managed to stay out and catch a few waves before the pain set in, but now will be out of the water for at least the next four weeks. Upset!
I fell sideways once, didn't rupture the eardrum but did whack it pretty hard. I went straight in on my belly and on walking on dry land I walked in a circle and almost fell over. I'm surprised you could manage more waves.
Got a few today in a place where lots of old guys seem to surf and I usually bypass. Maybe only surf it every couple of years. It was OK if you could find one that had some shape. Very straight and very backwashy everywhere and has been for a week.
Got up earlier than i needed to. Watched it procrastinating for nearly an hour and eventually went in thinking it was small. Actually turned out heavier than i thought and was able to work on my fitness and duck diving with my foot, instead of knee..Its hard to break old habits
Anyway managed two and half hours and loads of fun waves..All just a stones throw from home
)
I don't like seals..I think the seal could tell and was enjoying teasing me
I really should have not done the drive by on the coast at lunch today...didnt need that kind of regret hanging over my head all afternoon
Another fun quicky before work. Only managed a hand full of waves but had a blast as usual. Darth you slept in and missed out. Souwester and I plus only one other eventually so crowd factor was perfect.. Wind was chilly though
