I still paddle out almost every day (as long as it's worth it), but I'm jumpy and there have been lots of weed patches the last few weeks. I don't like weed patches. Today - sandy bottom, clear water. Sorta place I'd never worry about - just like Wedge. But the odd dark patch on the bottom has my nerves on edge.
Wave, by 0.5s. Eyes drift to the dark patches. Heading to Camel country in a few weeks too, so that's going to be fun.
Creased a 4 day old board (Surf day) today in thick barreling rights. F**kin devo'd. ah well newie getting shaped tomoz Phew!!
Here's to the wind forecast being slightly wrong...again!!!... and those real light 6 kn NWester is a real light 6 NEaster in the early hours of FATHERS DAY
(All I wanna do for fathers day is have a surf but usually cant because it is FATHERS DAY - sleep in little buggers sleep in)
HOpe like me that all dads are tied up. Sneak away in the early hours. See you out there.
cant remember if he did on that wave but he got plenty good waves
this were just a few quick snaps when I got out, 2 days of epic swell
but the wave above I would rate 2nd to Camel's video as good as I have seen
was ridden as far as the wave can go - nearly to the bommie
bigger tomorrow and even bigger wed - WTF!
Good overhead size waves today at a place close to recent shark attack. Overcast super sharky cloudy conditions and inconsistent.. hard to not think about it
some Pumping waves at "secret un named" metro beachies, bit of a wait between fire hose rips and backwash but when that one comes---yeeeeehaaaaa
(side note - my new Katana quad is a rocket ship. GET ONE)
happy fathers day to those of us who are, plenty of em out in the surf early too
