Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

Select to expand quote

Buster fin said..
You guys can't see the forest for the trees.

Im sure you have a better report

Select to expand quote

Buster fin said..
Indeed. Did you get a glimpse of todays line ups, for example?

Valid points mr buster at what time did you inspect, I have a particular haunt in mind for Saturday but tide is critical to success of the mission.
mission is being approached with military precision (there's a clue to suspect location)
By all means Saturday morning will be good up and down the coast but there is a specific window I am hunting for a specific wave.. tide to low its double up city tide to high its a bit crumbly...
similar to space travel and finding planets fit for human habitation I hunting for "the Goldilocks zone"

It is a mission which has swell direction at optimum whilst perhaps not as large as other swells the specific direction at said tide is looking promising..
Looking into my surf diary ( this is real) at 2014 there is an anomaly of epic ness at this time of year however two weeks earlier, all factors align with direction of swell wind and tide, the only one which has created doubt is the ese instead of a e or ene however due to the light but steady 11 knot window I am hoping for groomed swell and in the right direction.
I have said to much however this is the seriousness of a full time job and two days a week available for surf..
I have turned into a cross between Liam kneeson and terminator when it comes to getting waves in the 48 hour period of freedom called the weekend.
like a seagull on a chip, fly on a turd, I will be there hunting never stopping paddling (coughing as I am also a smoker) until my fingers and toes are blue from hyperthermia and my core temperature is below what mere humans could survive...
As I paddle into wave after wave grunting and making strange faces to keep the masses away I will become Rasputin weekend warrior, appearing at a beach near you.

NB: Dramatisation may not of happened

It's looking pretty good right now, too. But I just couldn't be bothered.

I know I'll regret it when the hoards amass tomorrow!

I hope it was bigger than it looks.

Select to expand quote

Legion said..
I hope it was bigger than it looks.

Good head height I zoomed in on the pic but here ya go
Unzoomed this is from a good 3-400 metres away

Select to expand quote

MickPC said..

IFocus said..
Had a couple of nice waves at dawn but had to shoo away the penguins and avoid icebergs cold got me around 9.00am

I was actually a little hot at times...yep you are due a new wettie...maybe even a hood, few guys out with them today

Says he sweating it out with the flash new suit

I had boots and hood on.........old age, grey hair just doesn't cut it

Ordered new 3/2 Vissla on the way home (last of the big spenders Mick)

LBB worth the drive. Pretty good shape, head high sets (mostly lefts), no weed, rips ok, and water temp better than expected.

Select to expand quote

jbshack said..
Had a blast locally, just My son, a mate for over three hours.. Seems the dead whale and sharks kept people in the carpark watching So absolutely destroyed and in die need of getting more surf fit

I couldn't get a leave pass today after yesterday's mega mammoth surf time,,, Around 10 today missy and bubs fell asleep and I thought about sneaking up there I knew it would be crowded, good to hear someone scored metro with no one ...

hows the banks????

Select to expand quote

Razzonater said..

jbshack said..
Had a blast locally, just My son, a mate for over three hours.. Seems the dead whale and sharks kept people in the carpark watching So absolutely destroyed and in die need of getting more surf fit

I couldn't get a leave pass today after yesterday's mega mammoth surf time,,, Around 10 today missy and bubs fell asleep and I thought about sneaking up there I knew it would be crowded, good to hear someone scored metro with no one ...

hows the banks????

There was actual shape locally!!

Ahh yes! It's those mid-week -no-one-out sessions that put a smile on my dial. Sloppy but fast if you hook into a runner.

Was thinking the same as I checked the wind and swell throughout the day...whilst I was at work! Im sure it would have been fun.

Anyone ever noticed that the optimal time to surf in Perth in any season is mid morning? This is a little theory I have had for a while. The bets surfs I have scored have fallen this way.

In Summer the low tide builds nicely after being stupidly low at dawn and the early morning offshore backs off...

In Winter the high tide back off a bit giving a bit more urgency to the surf and quiet often wind glasses off....

Being mid morning you escape the most of the 'Johnny Aggro Pre Work Paddle Crew' as well..

I find it totally fitting that the perfect time to surf is almost always going to be the least crowded - go figure!

Only me surfing, huh? Seems like I'm surrounded by soggy sheeple wherever I roam though...

I kept it local and had fun today.

It's shaping up to be a good year, surf-average wise, touch wood.

I love your work Huey!

Ooooooh! Thanks for the heads up.
I once felt your pain, Razzy, but have made financial sacrifice for the gain in psychological freedom.

Good call Razz, look out for each other over the weekend guys.

No, razz, the early bird went back to bed disappointed after having flown a fair bit of the coast.