went out at few novelty breaks around the cape, mostly clean and protected from the wind and if you knew where to go, not a soul to be seen. Known spots were crowded.
hahah. The ocean was pretty heavy at Coves and the tide way to shallow. Should have known better. Didn't have enough respect for the ocean and got humbled. Board is totally ****ed and I had a fun time swimming in.
Ohwell...boo hoo. Lesson learned. It's a pitty though, last few weeks I've had so many guys offer to buy that board off me. Now I gotta wax up my crappy 6'1" and get use to it again. Could have been worse. It was a heavy drop onto the reef and I was lucky to be launched feet first. Got away with a limp and wake up call
Pretty wild down there...
Two guys trying to get out at Mettams rights - not sure why... lots of weed in the middle of the 'bay'.
Trigg out of control - looks like a lagoon is starting to form in front of 1st car park.
BIG bombies coming through at Toms - no one out.
No one out at Watermans bay either... (was a little surprised by this).
1/2 a dozen teeny lids and a couple of guys on SB's at a northern novelty break - but the wind was hitting it straight on and it was not really doing it... the draw back from the bigger sets wasn't leaving too much water in front of them - literally saw a bloke land flat on his arse on the sand!
The beach breaks are certainly going to be very different the next time we hit the water...
That is one angry ocean today.
Faaaark that. Good rides to be had for sure...but the pounding to just get out there...nope
3 guys out at north beach getting some big bombs.. Looks hectic!
One guy wad trying to get out the whole 15 minutes I was there.. Felt exhausted just watching him
Anyone got any piccies of the novelty breaks from today? Especially from down south and up north, I know a couple of joints from were I grew up would have been showing some form today, (ie. Breaking above knee high )
hahaha yeah man, that was me. That bloody rip was a shocker man. Those laps at the pool really paid off. I almost drowned 9 months ago up North and have been training at the pools since to stop it happening again.
I was surfing the other day in boardies and sometimes I undo my wettie to the waist. May have been me. I've got hair down to my shoulders, not short like in my avatar. Which day was it? I've been out there everyday.
Checked out Cott today. I wanted to go in, my mate didn't. It was the roughest I think I've ever seen the place. I saw a few guys out at Coves and Isos....no thanks. VERY shallow tide and after Thursday's experience...I gave it a pass
i was hoping one of the surfers at the cove might've lent you a hand, because i reckon you'd have been swept out quite far if you weren't a strong swimmer. it was crazy to watch - specially when the board hit the rocks. there was a collective cringe amongst all the surfers watching.
dont remember that much detail, but might as well have been you. pretty sure it was friday, late arvo. i reckon your mate made a good choice tbh - looked foul! even the reefs just north of slimeys had a massive rip! yeah, isos was pretty tricky. no distinct channel made the paddle out a bit of a trek.
but some nice rip-able walls if you found the right waves. but fair enough, given sro actually issued a warning for today, it was wise of you to consider the consequences.
The thought occured to me that I might need help. It was comforting to know there were two other guys in the water, albeit, far away and having no idea was in a spot of bother. But was good knowing people witnessed it from the carpark. At least I knew if I got sucked out chances are someone would make the call
First thing that popped into my head when I surfed without my board was "it's going to be an epic". It was our catch phrase when things went 5hit while climbing mountains in Europe. Turns out the swim wasn't near as hard as I had thought. Train hard, fight easy I guess hahah. Trying to stay afloat in the aerated water was le ghey though.
Anyhoo...paddle in, time it with the waves to avoid being KOed and start thinking about the cost of a new board. If you stuck around you'd have seen one pissed off dude packing his broken board into his car
The place I went kiting yesteray was offshore with the n/wester. The swell lifted all day. In the arvo it looked surfable and a coupla other local blokes paddled out and surprizingly were getting some long rides but in difficult conditions.(very rippy) I was tempted but was knakered after 3 hours!
heaps of sand moving around, will be good when the wind turns hopefully theres a bit a swell left
Love winter
Suba you make me sick, you sound far too fit for me, kinda like i was many years ago.
I know how you feel about the swim. Few months ago nearly drowned down south in some very big heavy waves with a nasty rip after my leg rope parted. These days i don't like to let go of the board at all, just in case hehe
Anyways has got me getting fitter and last night even ventured to the Arena pool. 12 laps later and i was absolutely stuffed. So now have it set for three nights a week..
hahaha I know how you feel.
Actually just got back from Cott just then. Leash snapped...again...and I had a big swim back in to shore...second time in a week and the 6th leash broken in almost 3 months.
Better do some leash research.
Good on ya for getting in the water and starting training. It'll make a world of difference. Even just the confidence it adds to know you can swim the distance to shore when you've been sucked out.
I've been using Ocean and Creatures of Leisure. Haven't been buying the cheap ones either.
Before this year I'd rarely ever break them...now I'm going through them like skittles.
EDIT:
Actually...I haven't bean using Ocean and Earth....can't remember now what the other brand was. Ohwell. O&E claim to have the strongest leashes so I'll give them a crack.
Been out of the water for too long so I went to the usual spot in these conditions. Along with 20+ of my best mates. It has so much potential, never realised. Dirty, stinky water and not linking up. Nice to get (filthy) wet though. I'll be looking further afield the next two days.