I must be getting old. Looked okay on forcast for this morning but opted out to sleep in instead. Seems a bit chilly
I don't reckon those photos of the reefs do this morning much justice.
Some absolute drainers coming through on the beachies early this morning, with good size.
Just got back from bali, arms and shoulder are still so sore i decided to give this morning a miss. Surf looked good though! Fair few crew out enjoying it!
So..., I'm just recovering from a near death sickness ( I imagine brought on by a lack of surf recently). It looks like there miiiiiight be possibilities for a few sneaky ones very early on tomorrow, but I need a hero to point me in the direction of some (relatively) exclusive banks. Have just moved house and am unsure where my best chances are. Closest point of contact would be MAAC.
Private messages most welcome.
Good to get two days of surfing in... Bigger today than yesterday, but the Northerly was taking the shine out of it... still, got a few.
Was surprised by low crowds both days... seemed that a lot of crew were doing the early and getting out by 9:00am - which suited me fine 
How many surf schools out there today? 
, lol @ the amount of times i heard "get out of my way" shouted!.
Best surf in a long time today. Better than Iggy, long, long, long winding rights. Sharky though.
This morning i was just about to enter Mettoms. Finshed my wee in wettie and started walking in over the reef looking at waves when noticed right in front of me. Maybe 8 feet away, i was only anckle deep, about 15 or 20 sharks about 2 foot in size. That i nearly jumped on top
So in wee filled wettie had to drive up the road a bit further at a heavy spot that was cranking. Bit more than i had planed on but needed to rinse out the suit.
That was just the surf gods telling you that you're not to pee in your wettie before getting in.
Trigg was epic, ( for Trigg ) this morning! Light offshore with head and a half lefts and rights.
