Pryde AL foil

How the hell did the mast bend? I bought pryde because I axpected their r&d to be thorough. I also thought it was heat-treated. I assume it was up near the head where it was welded.
Can you post a pic? I read somewhere that the reason they don't supply a larger front wing for light winds is that the fuselage would bend. BTY the negative lift I posted earlier was the thickness of the washer not the angle of attack.

Are they going to give a user's weight limit?

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seanhogan said..
might have to... like on bikes !!!

I need to clarify it wasn't me !!! LOL But the guy is big unit too, Basile Jaquin's father to give you an idea.....

Next model in stainless steel

How much wind are you sailing in with what sail size/s, estimate? What board have you got it in and how much do you weigh?

With an ally Pryde I reckon you need ~10kts board speed before it will fly, if whatever you are using can't get you going at that speed, no Bueno.

Learning I reckon you want ~15kts and be using a 6-7.0m sail, weight dependent.

I just bought one of these recently and I too am keen to hear from current owners how best to set it up.

Im Using a 2016 JP Slalom 85 wide board and I weigh around 70kgs. I'm interested in what sails to use and what conditions to start in. I have the washer set up in the front of the rear wing at the moment.

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CJW said..
How much wind are you sailing in with what sail size/s, estimate? What board have you got it in and how much do you weigh?

With an ally Pryde I reckon you need ~10kts board speed before it will fly, if whatever you are using can't get you going at that speed, no Bueno.

Learning I reckon you want ~15kts and be using a 6-7.0m sail, weight dependent.

Im 70kg and 175 tall and generally going for the about 15 knot range. . I have the white epoxy JP foil board. Have been out once in 15 knots. Weather that would not get me planning on my magic ride and a 7.0. Rigged a 4.7 Severne Blade as I was basically scared, neutral setting on the rear wing. This was under powered, but still flew and crashed plenty, but too much pumping for my old bones. Would the 7.0 Have been too much? Should I be adding lift at the rear wing in the early days?

As a rule of thumb I rig two meters less than I would on my slalom board.
e.g. light winds where i would use a 9 or 8.6 on the slalom or lightwind board to get planing i would rig 7.0
if you can waterstart the sail it is too big for the foil- unless you are an advanced foiler
Powered up 6.5 -7 weather i would use around 5 mark
Ive used anything from 8.6 to 4.5 depending on conditions.
once the foil starts to fly it accelerates and needs much less drive than normal sailing.

what sail were you using ??? indeed the front washer is perfect to help going in light wind but can prove tricky in 20 knts !!

when I still had my al flight, I would always use the washer for better/earlier lift and put the mast a bit forward to trim the board down.
those flat wings are damn fast but so hard to control !

Im in the same position as madlad, used the AL foil with the washer at the back, for my first few goes.

I've found this position to be quite good at the start, with the foils not doing anything untoward and dropping me safely back on the water after brief (getting longer) flights. But now, watching our other mate on his slingshot foils getting stable longer flights than madlad and i have, on his second go, Im wondering if neutral maybe worth trying, or if im just a kook at foiling.

After watching madlad with foils set at max lift, im pretty sure thats overkill at my weight. Anyone using the neutral setting? Is it any easier to maintain flight?

Hey Guys,

Since the wind has been dead for the last couple of months over here I decided to create an an account on sreeze to have a little more to do. I have among my foils also the Pryde alu and ride ride the JP135 Pro edition. I have found this foil to be the least lifting of the ones I have, meaning you will will need a little bit bigger sail/more wind than with others. I use the standard washer between the stab for all weather conditions, and really only ever use this foil with 7.0 in 14+ knots. The foil doesn't really overpower, so I kept going with this setup into winds gusting well above 25 knots. I really like this foil for the high wind control it delivers. Jibing is a little harder than some, because you need to keep adequate speed to keep the stability. My settings on the JP: Backstrap in the first hole from the back, frontstrap in the second hole from the back, outboard positions. Mastbase goes into the track and 2cm forward (about 120cm from tail), just to make sure it's tight. I found the pryde foil have the power way under the back foot. It's really made for boards with the straps really far back. Even with the JP135 it's hard to maintain height when pointing upwind or going for the jibe and I'd like more front foot power to compensate. Haven't tried adding extra washers.

All and all, a nice foil, not the easiest to begin with and not the earliest to fly, but really nice overpowered, with a good acceleration and high topspeed.

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WhiteofHeart said..
Hey Guys,

Since the wind has been dead for the last couple of months over here I decided to create an an account on sreeze to have a little more to do. I have among my foils also the Pryde alu and ride ride the JP135 Pro edition. I have found this foil to be the least lifting of the ones I have, meaning you will will need a little bit bigger sail/more wind than with others. I use the standard washer between the stab for all weather conditions, and really only ever use this foil with 7.0 in 14+ knots. The foil doesn't really overpower, so I kept going with this setup into winds gusting well above 25 knots. I really like this foil for the high wind control it delivers. Jibing is a little harder than some, because you need to keep adequate speed to keep the stability. My settings on the JP: Backstrap in the first hole from the back, frontstrap in the second hole from the back, outboard positions. Mastbase goes into the track and 2cm forward (about 120cm from tail), just to make sure it's tight. I found the pryde foil have the power way under the back foot. It's really made for boards with the straps really far back. Even with the JP135 it's hard to maintain height when pointing upwind or going for the jibe and I'd like more front foot power to compensate. Haven't tried adding extra washers.

All and all, a nice foil, not the easiest to begin with and not the earliest to fly, but really nice overpowered, with a good acceleration and high topspeed.

In addition to Madlad's question.
You said..."I have among my foils also the Pryde alu" - what other foils are you comparing it to in terms of the comments, and would you suggest a different foil for beginners? I assume that the NP Alu is the "entry level" foil for NP.

Also, you ride the "JP135 Pro edition" and I'm thinking about the JP ES Epoxy version for sale on SB (with NP foil). Is there a likely to be a noticeable difference (excluding weight) for a newbie? (There's also a JP 135 Pro on sale at the moment).

Cheers,
Mort

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Mort67 said..

WhiteofHeart said..
Hey Guys,

Since the wind has been dead for the last couple of months over here I decided to create an an account on sreeze to have a little more to do. I have among my foils also the Pryde alu and ride ride the JP135 Pro edition. I have found this foil to be the least lifting of the ones I have, meaning you will will need a little bit bigger sail/more wind than with others. I use the standard washer between the stab for all weather conditions, and really only ever use this foil with 7.0 in 14+ knots. The foil doesn't really overpower, so I kept going with this setup into winds gusting well above 25 knots. I really like this foil for the high wind control it delivers. Jibing is a little harder than some, because you need to keep adequate speed to keep the stability. My settings on the JP: Backstrap in the first hole from the back, frontstrap in the second hole from the back, outboard positions. Mastbase goes into the track and 2cm forward (about 120cm from tail), just to make sure it's tight. I found the pryde foil have the power way under the back foot. It's really made for boards with the straps really far back. Even with the JP135 it's hard to maintain height when pointing upwind or going for the jibe and I'd like more front foot power to compensate. Haven't tried adding extra washers.

All and all, a nice foil, not the easiest to begin with and not the earliest to fly, but really nice overpowered, with a good acceleration and high topspeed.

In addition to Madlad's question.
You said..."I have among my foils also the Pryde alu" - what other foils are you comparing it to in terms of the comments, and would you suggest a different foil for beginners? I assume that the NP Alu is the "entry level" foil for NP.

Also, you ride the "JP135 Pro edition" and I'm thinking about the JP ES Epoxy version for sale on SB (with NP foil). Is there a likely to be a noticeable difference (excluding weight) for a newbie? (There's also a JP 135 Pro on sale at the moment).

Cheers,
Mort

To begin with your second question, I haven't sailed the ES version. But from what I've felt is weight a lot less important than with regular windsurfing. It's all about the balance. A friend of mine bought one after coming from an Elix F1 M, and he likes the JP ES better. I think it's a good board for a beginner.

I own a lok?foil Envol and have a mantafoils freeride and pryde alu available from my dayjob. I have tried the starboard GT Carbon / Race, pryde carbon and slingshot aswell.

Of all these foils I found the Lok? envol easiest for beginners. It is rediculously stable, and everyone I lent it too just sailed away and did a few 100m's in the air. This is why I have the racefoil of Lok?foil (LK1) on order now. This stability comes with a price of 1900?. I think in the category of the pryde alu you'd find the manta freeride, sb alu, zeeko. From those foils the pryde is definately the fastest. if you're looking for an entry racefoil the pryde is your foil. I really like the manta's freeride performance, also on boards not meant for foiling.

Don't get me wrong, the Lok? Envol gives an incredible amount of lift, so when overpowered I would always choose the pryde alu, due to it's stability increasing with speed and forgiving lift from the wings.

A foil to look at, at a little different pricing is the AFS Wind85. That's 1250? for a full carbon foil, by Foil & Co. It's the one i'd buy if I was somewhat on a budget. I get to try one out soon (along with the 105cm mast race version), but from what I've read it is just as stable as the Envol I have, but a little faster. Also there are more wings available if you're looking for extra speed or or earl liftoff.

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Maddlad said..

WhiteofHeart said..

Maddlad said..

WhiteofHeart said..
Hey Guys,

Since the wind has been dead for the last couple of months over here I decided to create an an account on sreeze to have a little more to do. I have among my foils also the Pryde alu and ride ride the JP135 Pro edition. I have found this foil to be the least lifting of the ones I have, meaning you will will need a little bit bigger sail/more wind than with others. I use the standard washer between the stab for all weather conditions, and really only ever use this foil with 7.0 in 14+ knots. The foil doesn't really overpower, so I kept going with this setup into winds gusting well above 25 knots. I really like this foil for the high wind control it delivers. Jibing is a little harder than some, because you need to keep adequate speed to keep the stability. My settings on the JP: Backstrap in the first hole from the back, frontstrap in the second hole from the back, outboard positions. Mastbase goes into the track and 2cm forward (about 120cm from tail), just to make sure it's tight. I found the pryde foil have the power way under the back foot. It's really made for boards with the straps really far back. Even with the JP135 it's hard to maintain height when pointing upwind or going for the jibe and I'd like more front foot power to compensate. Haven't tried adding extra washers.

All and all, a nice foil, not the easiest to begin with and not the earliest to fly, but really nice overpowered, with a good acceleration and high topspeed.

Thanks for your input mate. Can I ask what your weight is? I ask because when i used the AL foil with the washer in the front of the rear wing, it kept wanting to chuck me out of the water. I only weigh 70 kilos. I took the washer out entirely yesterday but there wasnt really enough wind to get up and flying.

86Kg's ;). But getting chucked out is more of a technique problem. If you want to start jibing you need a little front foot preassure during normal flying. E.g. you need to get rid of the slalom stance and learn the foilstance with the weight over, or even beyond the front leg. I think the pryde alu is easy to match your stance with as you are used to in slalom, that's why some people get it to work with the mast base forward, no spacer between stab front screw and straps forward. In that config you will however never open up jibing.

I was more talking about as soon as the foil would fly it would rise so quickly with the washer in the front it would breach the surface, even if i tried to put weight on my front foot. I found it a lot easier to have the washer in the back and then i could gradually get out of the water and return in a more gradual manner. Having said that, it was blowing above 15 knots and even 20 knots during my first go. I had a smallish sail on though (5.4 wave sail).

What board do you use? My JP has the straps about 5cm further aft then a regular board, which means the foil is more underfoot and the preassure is naturally more under the front foot. With a regular slalomboard I barely got the NP flying. I found having to push with the back foot to get get it up in the air actually destabilising the flight, because it's harder to correct. Having the power distributed evenly over both legs (or or even more under the frontleg, but that's for more advanced foiling), so that the foil actually starts flying automatically allows for easier corrections in height. Also having your lines too far forward makes for hard foiling. Having to pull with your back hand to sheet in means that when you sheet in you automatically push the board in the up with your back foot.

See the pic below, weight naturally over the front foot with both legs straight. If you have to sail with your back leg bent you could try sailing your mastbase /straps further back and the washer between the front stab screw (also, if in this config the board doesn't naturally leave the water, you can raise the boom, for foil you can use it about 5-10cm higher than you would in slalom. I would advice that last, because boom height is a really personal setting, I always ride my boom rather high for foil/freestyle, but for slalom about halfway up the cutout. 1,94m). Alltogether it will increase control, though it might take some some getting used too because your board will automatically lift out of the water. The foil used below is not the pryde, but with the pryde I aquire much the same stance, although with the mastbase 5cm further aft.

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Maddlad said..

WhiteofHeart said..

Maddlad said..

WhiteofHeart said..

Maddlad said..

WhiteofHeart said..
Hey Guys,

Since the wind has been dead for the last couple of months over here I decided to create an an account on sreeze to have a little more to do. I have among my foils also the Pryde alu and ride ride the JP135 Pro edition. I have found this foil to be the least lifting of the ones I have, meaning you will will need a little bit bigger sail/more wind than with others. I use the standard washer between the stab for all weather conditions, and really only ever use this foil with 7.0 in 14+ knots. The foil doesn't really overpower, so I kept going with this setup into winds gusting well above 25 knots. I really like this foil for the high wind control it delivers. Jibing is a little harder than some, because you need to keep adequate speed to keep the stability. My settings on the JP: Backstrap in the first hole from the back, frontstrap in the second hole from the back, outboard positions. Mastbase goes into the track and 2cm forward (about 120cm from tail), just to make sure it's tight. I found the pryde foil have the power way under the back foot. It's really made for boards with the straps really far back. Even with the JP135 it's hard to maintain height when pointing upwind or going for the jibe and I'd like more front foot power to compensate. Haven't tried adding extra washers.

All and all, a nice foil, not the easiest to begin with and not the earliest to fly, but really nice overpowered, with a good acceleration and high topspeed.

Thanks for your input mate. Can I ask what your weight is? I ask because when i used the AL foil with the washer in the front of the rear wing, it kept wanting to chuck me out of the water. I only weigh 70 kilos. I took the washer out entirely yesterday but there wasnt really enough wind to get up and flying.

86Kg's ;). But getting chucked out is more of a technique problem. If you want to start jibing you need a little front foot preassure during normal flying. E.g. you need to get rid of the slalom stance and learn the foilstance with the weight over, or even beyond the front leg. I think the pryde alu is easy to match your stance with as you are used to in slalom, that's why some people get it to work with the mast base forward, no spacer between stab front screw and straps forward. In that config you will however never open up jibing.

I was more talking about as soon as the foil would fly it would rise so quickly with the washer in the front it would breach the surface, even if i tried to put weight on my front foot. I found it a lot easier to have the washer in the back and then i could gradually get out of the water and return in a more gradual manner. Having said that, it was blowing above 15 knots and even 20 knots during my first go. I had a smallish sail on though (5.4 wave sail).

What board do you use? My JP has the straps about 5cm further aft then a regular board, which means the foil is more underfoot and the preassure is naturally more under the front foot. With a regular slalomboard I barely got the NP flying. I found having to push with the back foot to get get it up in the air actually destabilising the flight, because it's harder to correct. Having the power distributed evenly over both legs (or or even more under the frontleg, but that's for more advanced foiling), so that the foil actually starts flying automatically allows for easier corrections in height. Also having your lines too far forward makes for hard foiling. Having to pull with your back hand to sheet in means that when you sheet in you automatically push the board in the up with your back foot.

See the pic below, weight naturally over the front foot with both legs straight. If you have to sail with your back leg bent you could try sailing your mastbase /straps further back and the washer between the front stab screw (also, if in this config the board doesn't naturally leave the water, you can raise the boom, for foil you can use it about 5-10cm higher than you would in slalom. I would advice that last, because boom height is a really personal setting, I always ride my boom rather high for foil/freestyle, but for slalom about halfway up the cutout. 1,94m). Alltogether it will increase control, though it might take some some getting used too because your board will automatically lift out of the water. The foil used below is not the pryde, but with the pryde I aquire much the same stance, although with the mastbase 5cm further aft.

Thanks for the input WOH. I'm using my JP Slalom Pro race board as i cant afford to spend another 2 grand on a foil board. I have been running the mast base in the middle as i'm just beginning. I have no trouble getting the board to fly if i stand with my back foot between the back straps and my front foot at the front foot strap, even when the washer is in the rear screw of the stabiliser (provided there's 15 knots of breeze). Lately there's been insufficient breeze to get foiling easily so i havent had much chance to improve my technique, but it looks like there will be some breeze this weekend so i will hopefully get out then. :)

Definitely try moving the mast foot back. 3-4 cm can make a huge difference for me if raising the boom doesn't do the trick. Also, if you can, consider taking off the back straps until you have things sorted out. Until you are really powered up cranking upwind, you won't need them as you are much more upright and not pushing laterally like on a slalom board.