Hey Cisco, maybe next time you have some filler left over it would be worth digging some of that core back and sealing.
I'm sure the previous owner must have put clear silicon on maybe.
It could just be paranoid composite boat owner tendencies.
Yes, I will be smoothing some silicon back over it. I am fairly sure that the cockpit to cabin bulkheads are the only part of the yacht that is balsa core.
Jeez Frant i know a smaller hanked on jib is going to perform better than a half furled genoa but saying its not possible to sail upwind with a half or quarter furled genoa is a bit of a stretch. My genoa has foam inserts in the luff and actually sails upwind quite well.
That is what my point is Andy. I think it is not worth it having foam pads put into my furling head sail. I would be better off getting a new sail built which is an unnecessary expence for me at the moment.
As it is set up now I can only use the sail that is on the furler. If I go to hanked on I have another three sails I can use. One larger and two smaller with the two smaller being the most important.
You're dead right Cisco, I think you and I might be of a similar generation that understand that foam pads can't change the underlying shape of the structure they are meant to support. Foam luff inserts are a marketing gimmick and as the sail is rolled up the draught moves aft and increases. As a consequence the drag goes up exponentially cf the reduction in sail area and the boat actually heels over more, goes slower and points lower than if the headsail was left fully unfurled and the boat feathered.
Can you actually have luff tapes fitted to your hank on sails and hoist them on your furler head foil. I have a Harken MkII furler and can remove the furling drum and use the foil as a twin groove head foil. If I hoist the staysail on the furler with drum fitted I can furl the sail or fly it fully. That is a very easy option for single handing.
I will post pics of the soft hanks which you could have fitted simultaneously with a luff tape rope and open up your existing sails wardrobe.
Well now that I finally have all my wind instruments and speed log fitted I will do the experiments on a windy day. But i have to say it sure feels likes its pointing high and maintaing a good speed with a half furled genoa.
Cisco, Im with you its probably not worth altering an existing sail, and I'm not saying that a furler is a better option than hanked on sails.
Frant my understanding of the foam inserts is that they are designed to mitigate the effect of the draft moving aft as the sail is furled. From my experience, which admittedly is only a fraction of yours, the inserts seem to be able to provide a reduction in sail area that: reduces heeling; can be carried out from the cockpit; and provides adequate pointing ability.
I didn't do this today. I did it a few weeks ago. What I have done today is get the photos into my computer so that I can post them here.
What you have been waiting for HG!!
This is my handy work with brush and Feast Watson Exterior Clear (single pack, oil based). Five coats were applied to the tiller and four to the oars.
Part of the job was to fit a bigger diameter bolt holding the tiller extension swivel so that there is not the constant bump, bump on your hand when steering. That will give anybody hallucinations at sea.
Love that tiller Cisco is it mahogany and silver ash? or maple and ash? thinking of a similar combo for mine when I make it.
This job also was not done today but over the last week.
The old "Clipper Sounder" had it's transducer come loose from the resin holding it to the hull which was directly below the head unit. So the readings I was getting were history as it was located behind the keel.
What you are looking for is a bit of future with your sounder by having your transducer fitted well forward in the hull.
The "Clipper" is replaced by a Garmin echo 150, which at $89 from Tackle World I thought was quite a bargain. It is only monochrome but it has dual frequency, alarms and is configurable to read feet, fathoms or metres. The fish find capability is a bonus.
There was a box of sorts over this and the bulkhead and most of the rest of the yacht had been lined with 3 mm particle board with a matte white finish. The previous owner went to a huge amount of trouble cutting it to size and shape and then glueing it in with liquid nails but buggered it up by using cheap material.
I have removed most of it and I am going to paint the glass with gloss white enamel. The VDO Sumlog is a museum piece and it is replaced with a Garmin GPS Map 72H which though it is their basic unit, it is accurate and has a map plot page. It used in conjunction with Navionics on my 9" tablet should serve my purposes cruising the Queensland coast quite adequately.
I am not going to cut anymore holes and wanted to make best use of the existing holes so I shaped up a piece of meranti from the shed to attach the new instruments to.
Notice the dome nuts on the end of the bolts fitted so that there is nothing sharp to get snagged on.
The halyard and lines bag had to be moved up a couple of inches to prevent fouling on the instruments. I did not use the swivel base for the sounder and flush mounted it to keep the plugs and sockets out of the weather. I bought the weather cover for the sounder also.
I haven't used the swivel part of the GPS mount. The power lead for the GPS is taken through the companionway and it and the GPS are taken inside when not in use so as to keep that socket out of the weather too.
You will see the temperature reading under the depth reading. As the transducer (transom mount type) is mounted inside the hull I won't get an accurate reading of water temperature but hopefully it will be sensitive enough to register changes in water temperature.
The location for the transducer had some loose and flakey paint on it so I gave it a scrape and a bit of sanding. The silicon used is Selleys neutral cure Roof and Gutter Sealant ($8) and was applied with half the nozzle cut off to give a 10 mm bead. It needs to be applied carefully so that there are no air bubbles trapped into it.
I wanted to get it as far forward as possible but also out of the way from getting knocked around. Therefore I placed just behind the main part of the locker under the forward berth.
The 6 metre cable was long enough to reach the head unit but only directly through the main cabin. I will be routing it through the lockers on the starboard side for which purpose I bought the 3 metre extension cable ($40, ouch). Today I bought a 100 pack of stick on cable mounts and zip ties ($26, ouch again) to complete the job. Overall I am really chuffed with the new gear being on the boat.
Hmmm makes me wonder why I cut a hole in the bottom of my boat
Any way at least it doesn't leak. I had to cut it out like that because the old transducer was 40 mm thick, bogged faired and glassed in. The other holes were the dual B and G speed units i replaced them with a single raymarine paddle wheel.
I've got the same fishfinder as Cisco and it works just fine embedded in a big gob of bluetack. I was testing positions and haven't been bothered with silicon yet because I'm lazzzzzy!
That looks stunning compared to the last picture Andy.
Must be nice to have it all the prep done, it looks really good.
.
Does anyone have any ideas for this?
I use a 40 lb plough which is forever causing chipped paint. I was thinking about gluing rubber conveyor belt material to the deck but aside from the fact that it would look crap I'm loath to glue anything to steel in case it rusts underneath.
I was toying with the idea of just building up the paint coating until it's really thick but it would still chipt. I've noticed that you can buy rubber textured coatings but have no experience with them.
maybe some cheap 6mm painted ply cut to shape and held down with a few dobs of silicon ...........replace whenever needed ........make the dobs thick enough so the water runs out from underneath ....
I've got the same fishfinder as Cisco and it works just fine embedded in a big gob of bluetack. I was testing positions and haven't been bothered with silicon yet because I'm lazzzzzy!
Blue tack!!!! That is damned interesting.
Japie, you could cut the bow section out and replate it with stainless or plate over it. Worth consideration. Bit of a job but will save a lot of grief down the track.
I didn't do this today. I did it a few weeks ago. What I have done today is get the photos into my computer so that I can post them here.
What you have been waiting for HG!!
This is my handy work with brush and Feast Watson Exterior Clear (single pack, oil based). Five coats were applied to the tiller and four to the oars.
Part of the job was to fit a bigger diameter bolt holding the tiller extension swivel so that there is not the constant bump, bump on your hand when steering. That will give anybody hallucinations at sea.
Been wondering when you would through your ace on the table very very nice Cisco
Opps I should not be in this thread tonight
I've got the same fishfinder as Cisco and it works just fine embedded in a big gob of bluetack. I was testing positions and haven't been bothered with silicon yet because I'm lazzzzzy!
Blue tack!!!! That is damned interesting.
Wish that's what I'd used!
Japie, you could cut the bow section out and replate it with stainless or plate over it. Worth consideration. Bit of a job but will save a lot of grief down the track.
Good ideas Sand, Cisco. I do keep on top of it but every time the anchor makes contact with the deck it makes me wince!
Does anyone have any ideas for this?
I use a 40 lb plough which is forever causing chipped paint. I was thinking about gluing rubber conveyor belt material to the deck but aside from the fact that it would look crap I'm loath to glue anything to steel in case it rusts underneath.
I was toying with the idea of just building up the paint coating until it's really thick but it would still chipt. I've noticed that you can buy rubber textured coatings but have no experience with them.
This ones hydraulic but Brent Swain has a plan of the manual version I might have it some where Japie Ill ,look tomorrow this time you will own me two more beers
Bent Swain origami boats google it
groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/origamiboats/info
We went to the Island of Samos many years ago and spent a week at this beautiful place called Pythagorion. Tides there are 6 inches.
Japie,
For your foredeck I would be inclined to install a stainless steel plate, bolted to the deck at the corners, and lifted off the deck by installing spacers under the bolts. Bolt holes nicely sealed, and maybe even use plastic spacers for insulation.
HG- That 15t boat has side thrusters, no wind, and no tide flow. Not fair on our Mc Naughty.
Cisco- I have the same instrumentation, hand held GPS and fishfinder. It works much better than the multi-display single screen units you find on modern boats like the Hanse, and it is a hell of a lot cheaper
MY intention wasn't to make fun Yara.. I have enough trouble with my old boat backing in long keels are hard to reverse. any yacht is once you factor in weather and tides and waves
Hi HG. I was not too serious about that docking boat.
BTW I think that for long keeled boats, one of those electric outboards mounted on the stern is the way to go in tight corners. You can use it like a thruster for a fraction of the cost.
Hi HG. I was not too serious about that docking boat.
BTW I think that for long keeled boats, one of those electric outboards mounted on the stern is the way to go in tight corners. You can use it like a thruster for a fraction of the cost.
Im waiting on Bubbles report on his snake he bought He seems happy with it so far
Hi HG. I was not too serious about that docking boat.
BTW I think that for long keeled boats, one of those electric outboards mounted on the stern is the way to go in tight corners. You can use it like a thruster for a fraction of the cost.
I have extended an electric outboard to use as a bow thruster in case I get hemmed in at a wharf or whatever when I'm on my own one day.
Haven't had to use it yet but it's there if I need it.
Part of the job was to fit a bigger diameter bolt holding the tiller extension swivel so that there is not the constant bump, bump on your hand when steering. That will give anybody hallucinations at sea.
Love that tiller Cisco is it mahogany and silver ash? or maple and ash? thinking of a similar combo for mine when I make it.
I really do not know what the timber is. I think it is original and so would be the right stuff.
First coat of primer near the forward bulk head
Hoping this will break up the timber
Ill sand and recoat several time before i give it the final coat
Masking tape off
Shaggy, get the best autopilot money can buy. The builders will know or recommend that for you.
As far as wheel or tiller steering I think that at 40 ft wheels are going to be a more user friendly option.
When racing upwind the boat will have a sweet spot of approx 10 deg and 0.5 knot that you can get optimum VMG. It is going to be up to the steerer and trimmers to decide wether you are going for height mode or footing mode and the instruments are going to be the only reference as the boat will feel good in that sweet spot and the sensitivity of feel through a tiller will simply not exist.
Downwind in hair raising conditions I feel that wheel steering is a better option. I think you get a much better view and feel of the movement of the boat standing up rather than sitting down. Your legs give an ability to maintain your balance and you can actually brace off the wheel whilst still steering.
The same holds for all sailing angles offshore. It is far less taxing on the body to be standing using legs as shock absorbers and hanging onto a wheel cf. Sitting and fighting the tiller with only the precarious friction from your bum holding you in place.
Dinghy sailing is a different story and my comments above are relevant to big boats.
I race on a DK46 and we have just fitted a pair of iPads to the wheel binnacles for all displays similar to setup on my boat discussed in music thread.
Thanks Frant,
All good points. I have gone for an NKE pilot but am using the standard Gyropilot microprocessor as compared to their Regatta processor, at $5K I just couldn't do it.
Apparently the trick with the Pogo is to use the traveller, at nearly 4.0 mtr long I can see why, I can envisage this being used a lot. The traveller controls are next to the helmsman, so I need to look at this , I cant remember how it sits for the crew position.
I like the numbers aspect of sailing, so polars, angles and VMG I enjoy learning about. I have opted for Adrena offshore software as it autobuilds polars the more you sail, which I kinda like. I am interested to see how I do compared to the vendor polars. Probably be embarrassing for the first 12 months