Just shared the lineup with a huge school of dolphins - they were in no hurry and played around me for about 15 mins - swimming underneath me and sharing a few waves - epic!! No one could believe it how friendly they were - with most saying "jeepers people pay to swim with these lovely creatures, how lucky are we!!!!"
What a day its been and its only 11:30am!
Score...bit slow down here...didn't bother after racking up 16 hours of surf in the previous 4 days...
I surfed Makorori today.....2 to 3 foot with occasionally bigger sets.....Makorori Point attracting lots of punters.
Same scenario for the last 3 days.....offshore winds warm water blue skies
I shudder to mention the goat boat competition that thought they should take over "red bus" on Saturday
You just seem to be having way to much fun Ted
I won't tell ya then that this evenings session was absolute perfection. Thought I was in Indo - as did the 5 others - every one was hooting everyone into every wave. Some lulls but the sets were much bigger than the rest of the day. It was incredible. I am absolutely knackered Seems the big swell has moved the sand around perfectly onto many of the beaches.
You just seem to be having way to much fun Ted
I won't tell ya then that this evenings session was absolute perfection. Thought I was in Indo - as did the 5 others - every one was hooting everyone into every wave. Some lulls but the sets were much bigger than the rest of the day. It was incredible. I am absolutely knackered Seems the big swell has moved the sand around perfectly onto many of the beaches.
we have small on shore. i have two boards i'm dying to try out
ted- you really suck
Fingers crossed we have another little pulse tomoz here .... will be awesome to have a relaxed surf for a change
Bummed out this morning .... got about 6 barely waist high peelers at best - geez it was sad compared to what we had over Easter it's all going up north to Gero looking at the horizon .... lucky feckers
Bummed out this morning ....
Same I had to go to the big smoke for an early meeting
I have just had 3 and a bit hours of absolute glass walls .... Lord Hughance blessed me with stoke and a touch of froff this morning - shoulder highs and the odd head or so - just me for pretty much the first 2 hours from dark
Got a bit crowded so I left with a wavepig load of rides , geez I love my midweekers .... didn't see my offsider brother MickPC & I hope he was down south a bit cleaning up
Farken stoked - know I am rooted because I am smashing 5 shredded wheats with a heap of sugar
Thankyou Hughance I owe ya one buddah
I was watching you mate, saw you get some good ones & poor Anne Marie get run over by that fark wit. Watched for about 40 mins chatting to Steve & then bailed off to do some work on the new house, then 15th wedding anniversary lunch with the missus. Was a beautiful day, letting the body recharge for the next big swell next week
I was watching you mate, saw you get some good ones & poor Anne Marie get run over by that fark wit. Watched for about 40 mins chatting to Steve & then bailed off to do some work on the new house, then 15th wedding anniversary lunch with the missus. Was a beautiful day, letting the body recharge for the next big swell next week
Yeah I was on my way back out I think & missed the gist of that one , he missed Libby & nailed Annemarie .... mate u should have come out for an hour ...... it was wicked until that human baitball formed , that was enough for me - I'd wavepigged for a few hours anyway pretty much by myself
Hey Congrats on the 15 year itch too brother - CHEERS BIG EARS
Fun waves even dropped in on my son haha, Lacey new board is the goods all good until a knee paddling sup ran over my board wanker soon fiked off when I gave him a mouth full off to mct for some repairs,stef was out on a mal all smiles
Cheers guys
Yeah Pup, I probably should have but I really was recharging from that last big swell we had & a very busy shift the night before that had me running all night. Also needed to get some stuff done at the new house while the brickies were still there & of course hang with the missus. Hopefully next week is as good as it looks early in the week
Fun waves even dropped in on my son haha, Lacey new board is the goods all good until a knee paddling sup ran over my board wanker soon fiked off when I gave him a mouth full off to mct for some repairs,stef was out on a mal all smiles
dropping in on your son is a very serious offence.
crime against the greenroom. i'm going to put a tail pad on so i know were i am and hit the sweet spot. as expect doesn't pickup like the hot log but i got one of the nicer suckier waves and well its so good in there.
i really want to get some time in on decent waves- not like todays log waves.
ted, the nano is a speed machine . loves those long drawn out turns with the thump on the end. glides over the flats. the big volume is good and bad. easy wave catching but im having a bit of trouble getting the tail in. found some good speed and turns on some rights and generally got better as i went. i have to jam my back foot against the tailpad kicker which is a good thing- put your pad right back near the leggie plug.
im going to set it up as quad for some more bite seeing as the volume is too big. 6' feels right tho
cheers
Its pumping down here surfed myself stupid this morning if I didn't have a 40k run tomorrow I would still be out there...4-6 foot and absolutly of its nuts...photos to come
Fun waves even dropped in on my son haha, Lacey new board is the goods all good until a knee paddling sup ran over my board wanker soon fiked off when I gave him a mouth full off to mct for some repairs,stef was out on a mal all smiles
Which board mate?
dropping in on your son is a serious offence
I must have a dysfunctional family cause it's all but compulsory with my mob
dropping in on your son is a serious offence
Funny I haven't surfed with him for about 4 years he is always around the corner at a HP shot board wave while I'm on the softer longboard waves.
I saw him on a bomb out the back at snapper so I waited for him to come into LM so I had to it right
cw hp update.
got a tail pad on it and went out at the alley. waves were much better and bigger.
get in the right spot and it's all action fast control with good turning and in the pocket is at it's best. i lot easier at speed and steeper take offs
the reason i put in a tail pad is the same reason i use pads on all of my surfboards - when it time to carve you just put your foot against the choc and your in the right position. with hp longboards having big tail rockers i really don't understand the resistance in using them.
i'm a novice on lbs but this board has two aspects to me-the trimming up on the nose and the get back and use the pulled in tail and rocker to turn/carve, ride the pocket and tubes if your lucky to get those kind of waves
cheers
that you waited so long to get a hp longboard,it worked a treat today from behind you were playing hide and seek,now you see him now you don't'hang on their he is again which means it was turning on a 10 cent piece.
Well.for the last two weeks we have had incredible waves. The last two days have been tiny,but after four hours yesterday on knee to waist high on the big beast,well I think I'm finally getting somewhere with walking on the board.
Today was the shock though. Took the big girl when I really could have taken the shorty,or even better my hp. Waves were two to three and peeling like a point break. As the tide dropped it just got more fun as they got suckier and offered more power. So much fun.
We have had dolphins and sharks,but **** all tourists. A hard paddle out makes it hard for them holiday folk.
Great to.read that you have all been scoring....Lacey,my tip is head up here about 7
Well. Got a total surprise this morning. Surfed lighthouse with nice 3ft only 4 out. Looked liked total crap but wanted to get wet.
Amazing how tide can often change a place in an instant ( so to speak). It was mushy but surfable..... As the tide dropped over 1/2 and hour the bank started to work
Turned out to be a super surf Made a pig of myself over the next hour. Totally stuffed now ????
Made a pig of myself over the next hour. Totally stuffed now ????
love reading this
small waves at snapper close to the rocks with macaha which were of good shape. macaha his mact evo thingie which he had going really well where i had the hotlog thinking it was go to be small and gutless.
got some crackers. hotlog here, hp in this part haha- hard to decide now
had to leave early to do some work for a mate, then set my nano up with am2 quads. the other fins damo gave were extra large thruster set which was the problem
sh1tty beach break but geez these nano's fly i did a backhand reo and the board came back down so hard and fast i honestly though i might and snapped the board.
very exciting when you can just throw the board up into places you normally only dream of- the trick is to keep up with the board
ps lots of surfing last 2days- i've got rashes and sore bits everywhere
pps go to town
Well well well,you told me you were always taking two boards,but didn't today
The shape of those waves were perfect,nice steep drops and walled up into LM
Stuck some tape and re-finned the Pinnacle for some clean small B Bay sliders tomorrow
Well well well,you told me you were always taking two boards,but didn't today
The shape of those waves were perfect,nice steep drops and walled up into LM
Stuck some tape and re-finned the Pinnacle for some clean small B Bay sliders tomorrow
Watch out for lightening bolts
I sure will mate I had full exportations of taking a few happy snaps,if I can find it.
Sweet