Two good surfs at secret metro location beachie chunky on Saturday and Sunday. Crowds minimal considering how GOOD the waves were and how long it's been since the beaches have had banks, shape, off shore!!!
Saw best drop in ever today, wave of the DECADE at secret peak spot x good big ( head n a bit face ) reeling out of a rip seriously good wave, like video good Taylor Steele good and old mate on a ****ing mal thing casual as you like ****ing dropped in on young bloke just positioning himself for the pit, bastard didn't even look then kooooooooked it!!! Think he was a Brazilian wicked van driver living in the car park prick just fckuked wave of the decade!!
PRICK
ANYWAY GOOD SURF now spaghettied arms and in need of a brew
Well done to the 10000000000s who missed it but made their mums happy
Had a quick surf at my local after seeing just how good it was. My son was very un happy i said he couldn't come out. I left him at home and told him to get his mum and sister to all come down and watch. Well they came down and i thought she was just waving but apparently it was you just slit you throat sign ..I really need to check my eyes
Had a hand full of the most amazing rides..It was a bit bumpy but long faces but a hell of a paddle back out. Constant paddling to hold take off spot and the constant fear of facing my wife and her mother had me out after only a hour or so
Lots of making up this afternoon and BBQ i think have made things right
Select to expand quotejbshack said..
Had a quick surf at my local after seeing just how good it was. My son was very un happy i said he couldn't come out. I left him at home and told him to get his mum and sister to all come down and watch. Well they came down and i thought she was just waving but apparently it was you just slit you throat sign ..I really need to check my eyes
Had a hand full of the most amazing rides..It was a bit bumpy but long faces but a hell of a paddle back out. Constant paddling to hold take off spot and the constant fear of facing my wife and her mother had me out after only a hour or so
Lots of making up this afternoon and BBQ i think have made things right
ah,, the things we do..
Still,,, probably a good day for your son today if the wind holds off for the day.
Select to expand quotephotosbykarlo said..
Who said it wasn't double overhead today
Hi all! First post.
I remember this little grom charging!
Was a good day out there.
A mate got some really nice photos. I'll put them up soon
Select to expand quotebakesy said..
pretty consitent then....
Baha
Sorry I tried to upload 4 different pics. Didn't work
Just hit edit, and delete a few, and have another shot..
edit: while you're trying to work it out , check this link for some avatars for you..
www.google.com.au/search?q=image+of+shaman+surfer&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a
Had my eye on this spot for three years, hoping it might work on certain conditions, it's not easy to access and I only really have a look on 3m+ days on a high tide. Checked it 50 or so times and never surfed it, pretty happy to find it OK on this day, Iphone pics don't do it justice, went back 12 hours later to find it gone.
Select to expand quotebakesy said..
pretty consitent then....
a bit like Impossibles in reverse
Scored mortem beaches head high. Mostly straight but a few beautiful ones if ya picked them. Didn't get heaps of waves but am pretty happy.
Swell dropped quick. Small and inconsistent but mostly just bloody cold
Still cant get legs feeling right
Goldern sunset session last night with the grom on metro beachies, lots of banks around after the blow with the crew spread out. Chest to waist high peelers lefts and rights a bit fat but the grin on the groms face after trimming along a backhand lefty on the softy was pricless. If only Perths beachies where this good year round. Sounds like they are straightening up as we type.
I even managed a few on the six six fush.
Select to expand quotechrispychru said..
Scored mortem beaches head high.
Post-mortem?
That top pic looks like bigfoot surfing, all it needs to set it off is the Loch Ness monster cruising in the background.
*put 'em back Chrispy
In the other room mate. That knob dropped in on me about 20 mins later as I just got covered up. Prick haha
Some super fun waves this morning. Only a few out and great atmosphere..
Cold though..
Not cold where I am, no waves either though.
On the upside there's lots of Barra, Jacks and other delicious fishes. Nom non nom nom nom.
Select to expand quotejbshack said...
Some super fun waves this morning. Only a few out and great atmosphere..
Cold though..
+1. I managed to only get a few but the few guys out in the lineup made it a great surf, everyone shared the waves and had a few laughs and shared the stoke, makes a big difference to a session imo.
