Man - where are the Autumn banks already?! Trigg is as straight as a ruler...
Nearly saw a record - 8 people surfing one wave at Mettams... 5 going left and the three inside went straight. No thanks...
Looked at a couple of fickle breaks about 20min north but they were not working...
Yeah I was going to - but decided to go to the Dawn ANZAC Service....
I went back down again at 11:00am hoping the higher tide had something more to offer - wrong...
Trigg was very dumpy through 2nds and 3rds - watched for about 15 min and did not see anyone make a take-off and get more than 3 or 4m - boogers and clubbies included. Point looked OK - but it was pretty busy...
Mettams looked bigger, but just too many people on what was really an ordinary wave.
No one at Nth Mullaloo - only a couple of beach fishos and some sea weed.
Secret Spot further north had one 666 paddling hard on to a fat-burger wave that rolled out from underneath him.
I came home and mowed the lawn and swept the paths...
I went driving and ended up at Trigg point with a coffee and spent about an hour watching. Every super star was out practising. Better action on the path. Came home and took dogs for a walk. Spoke with a local who said my local went all time epic as the wind dropped and i missed it[}:)]
Picked up a mate and drove form Mullaloo to Cottesloe. All a bit sad and did not even get in (mind you old mate was a bit crook).
6 SUPs and 6 surfboards at Isos and Cove, with the SUPS and one mal rider getting the best of it.
Agree with GPA's assessment. Checked all those spots on the way back.
Saw the SUP head out to the secret northern reef but it looked like the swell was too low and tide too high.
Tomorrow is shaping up all right though
Had a cracker of a surf today, some size about the sets. Lumpy and a bit unpredictable which made it easy to jag a few from the small crowds, just sit 20m away from the pack and wait for one to swing wide.
Had some nice late drops and long waves that just kept re-forming, was buggered when I got out. One of those days where you felt like you were gonna tear apart every wave you went for. Good vibe considering the reputation the place I was surfing has.
Grommy tried to snake so I just went hard at one and he pulled back, nothing needed to be said which is good cos i hate when that s**t happens. Ruins a good session.
Wasn't expecting much but checked out my local. Nothing so took a gamble and a short drive North at a spot i've wanted to surf for a while. Found only 4 out but the car park full.
I've heard its a bit unfriendly but the first guy i spoke to told me were to paddle out, got straight and biggest set of the day rolled in and as i was paddling from inside the first bloke out the back turned and called me into the biggest and best wave of the set.
It was s little fat but non the less a great ride to be had, but a bloody big paddle back each time. Only managed a hand full of waves but what a day..As i was driving of the car park was chockers, this other bloke waves and says "Seeya mate" Possibly the friendliest place i think i've ever surfed in my life
Forecast onshores threw me, so decided to get a few brownie points and took the dog to the park. Looks like the wind was very light and variable after all.
Breath of fresh air when its friendly. I find the guys south west like that most of the time I go too.
Local booger lost his booger somehow, where I was the other day, I was on my way in so stopped it going up the beach a bit. Another board rider said something to the effect of "why bother?" .... go figure.
Got a few fun ones at a secret beachie today, crowd wasn't too bad and for the most part kook free and pretty friendly.
A couple of groms paddled out at the shift change, kept cherry picking and then calling blokes off 'their' waves.
Was funny to see an old head in the lineup have a quick word and tell them to behave.
Surfed this afternoon at a Northern Reef that i've never surfed before. Only a few guys out and a bit of fun. Until i damaged my board on a rock so dropped it into Soul Surf to be repaired.
I did Find a Burton 6'4" Silver Bullet that i like the look of...I was thinking of down sizing from my Fat Bullet that is 6'8" But it has strange Fin boxes. They look like the FCS new style but the rear and Cneter fin box seem a lot bigger. ANy ideas on what they could be, board is nearly new
Drove North with fingers crossed... greeted by head high avg with bigger sets - shifty, but some nice big peaks and good walls to be had - but you had to wait.
Weed was annoying though and the paddle out harder than my out of form arms would have liked. Southerly started messing it up around 9:30am... then the rips started.
Had a cheeky dolphin snake me... had to smile though.
Surfed a novelty reefy today for the first time, was a bit of fun only a handful out taking turns.
Got pretty sketchy as the tide started to drop, quite a fickle place, never thought of surfing it before, was a nice change to the usual set ups I have been surfing.
Awesome Autumn day, gotta be the best time of year for a surfer!
scored some sic little shoulder high lefts with the ocasional head high bomb not much power but perfect shape good solo session before work 7/10 before a huge seal took the fun out if it .
Not bad at the local beach this morning. Had size, few good rips. Low crowd too.
Should see an improvement in the banks from now, particularly with this front on the way next week.