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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
mocha1
WA, 933 posts
26 Jun 2013 7:46PM
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LSL = long service leave got 70+ up ma sleeve........can't believe I've been in the teaching game for 17+ years and on my second set of freebie paid days off!!!!
Weeks in bali day trips etc gov service gotta love it

gruezi
WA, 3464 posts
26 Jun 2013 10:55PM
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Today was great!

bene313
WA, 1347 posts
27 Jun 2013 12:05PM
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Still plenty around this morning. I went again to one of the metro back beaches and surfed with one other bloke nearby.

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
28 Jun 2013 5:42PM
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What a week of surfing...
Great waves every day, especially if you timed it right.

Andy T
WA, 325 posts
28 Jun 2013 6:04PM
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Where's the footage suba from all your filming this week

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
28 Jun 2013 6:30PM
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ha, I tried filming on the first day and gave up. No point filming surfing if the people you're filming cannot surf. I'd rather just be in there on my board, so that's what I did.

I'm done filming in Perth.

EDIT: That's not to say I think I was better than the people I was filming by the way. It's just that when you're watching footage of people surfing, if they are not good or have any style, it get's quite boring. Especially on the waves we have here.

Andy T
WA, 325 posts
28 Jun 2013 7:15PM
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Point taken...
I've been stuck at work all week, haven't even looked at some water so get a bit anxious listening to all the regulars getting some action.

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
28 Jun 2013 7:27PM
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haha. I was lucky enough to have a completely free week. Couldn't take the work boat out as all work plans were binned when the initial nasty forecast was given. So took the week off. Think I clocked up close to 20 hours of surf time this week and it's been real good. Crowds haven't been too bad and the sun has been out enough that I didn't need the wettie. Skin has been browned. Wave quote filled. Plenty of coffees from Yelo and the girls on Spandex Drive have been as hot as ever.

Good times

Zuke
901 posts
28 Jun 2013 8:55PM
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^^^^ Now that's what I call a bloody good week off work suba. You lucky, lucky,.......

quirkus
WA, 322 posts
28 Jun 2013 9:08PM
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subasurf said..

haha. I was lucky enough to have a completely free week. Couldn't take the work boat out as all work plans were binned when the initial nasty forecast was given. So took the week off. Think I clocked up close to 20 hours of surf time this week and it's been real good. Crowds haven't been too bad and the sun has been out enough that I didn't need the wettie. Skin has been browned. Wave quote filled. Plenty of coffees from Yelo and the girls on Spandex Drive have been as hot as ever.

Good times


Bstd !!
,,, on ya scruba..

Slipped up north to my fav for a couple of the days,
and then ended up at mettams today due to lack of time and some work commitments, and hoping to get some easy fat soft right handers.....
Why does anyone go there ,,, I can't work it out??

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
29 Jun 2013 12:26PM
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Looked at my local and thought i need to take my own advise. Travelled a little south to a Beach with a point that i have avoided due to the weed and it was all time. For me anyway Head to should high peelers..Only three guys sitting a little to deep for me and myself and one other guy just out slightly..Sadly only out for about an hour but managed 5 or 6 amazing rides. I really wished i'd off had a Quad set up i think it would have given me the extra speed to even make a few more
My feet are still complaining about the cold though
Hope everyone else is getting some. I feel re born.

GPA
WA, 2519 posts
29 Jun 2013 12:28PM
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^^^
[EDIT: Reply to one post up] Like anywhere, on it's day it can be good. I prefer it when it all lines up for small rights off the rocks... glassy little mal peelers... I'm not into the 'party wave left'...

Anyhoo... today at a less popular northern beachie was bigger than (I) expected. Lots of crew early. Some good ones, but the majority were still too fast to make... if you got a shoulder on a big one it was good. Got smashed a couple of times trying to pull in... and had a couple of 'oh sh!t' moments paddling out to meet the rouge set wave...

Water temp was warm...

GPA
WA, 2519 posts
29 Jun 2013 12:36PM
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jbshack said..

Travelled a little south... Head to should high peelers..Only three guys sitting a little to deep for me and myself and one other guy


Not sure what time you were there, but by 8:15am it was pretty busy, and looked half the size of the main break and the next one south (where I went). Weed was clumpy on the inside... got caught across my leggie as I finished one wave and I went straight over the nose as the 'weed brake' gripped!

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
29 Jun 2013 12:42PM
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GPA said..




jbshack said..

Travelled a little south... Head to should high peelers..Only three guys sitting a little to deep for me and myself and one other guy





Not sure what time you were there, but by 8:15am it was pretty busy, and looked half the size of the main break and the next one south (where I went). Weed was clumpy on the inside... got caught across my leggie as I finished one wave and I went straight over the nose as the 'weed brake' gripped!


I was talking about on the point for numbers. There were heaps everywhere else. I was surprised at the amount of mals ad even the 666's out

I got out right then..Just south of it was bigger and not bad but yeah it had more weed. I paddled down and caught one in from their. The shape was what got me..It seemed to have two different sets rolling in. One that went deeper and they were sweet (but the other three grabbed them) and the next set that looked straighter (were i was ) but held up super nice with long runs all the way inside..One of the guys actually commented about the sneaky waves i was catching.

Did you see the guy in the green wetsuit and hat? He was cheering a lot to himself..He had another mate with him who was out with me.

What board were you on? As i left the there were about 8 guys getting ready in the car park and the surf school just showed up

GPA
WA, 2519 posts
29 Jun 2013 1:32PM
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^^^
PM sent

sparki
WA, 410 posts
29 Jun 2013 2:30PM
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Went to my normal northern beachie. Mostly pretty ordinary shape, but got one that had a brilliant wall that was begging for a smashing. There were also more big waves than little ones coming through. I was thinking it was a bit odd given an apparently 'dying' swell, but not complaining. Some of the bigger ones were make-able by the people that were willing to huck themselves over the lip and grab rail. I was one of those guys. Got myself my first legit, deep backside barrel from an absolute drainer (for Perth standards). Soo stoked!

And then upon getting out, a red bull car pitched up and unloaded the freebies. Pretty sweet morning!

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
29 Jun 2013 2:55PM
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If anyone saw a guy in boardies absolutely eat 5hit on a bomb ay trigg around midday that was me hahah. Still limping.

Alternatively, I did see one guy get an epic stand up tube ride on a right hand drainer.
The lineup went off. Wave of the week for sure.

Edit: as sparki said. Plenty of great rides to be had if you wete willing to go hard on some very sketchy take offs. The wipeouts were a lot heavier than they appeared but the rewards were powerful throaty rides....for Perth.

sparki
WA, 410 posts
29 Jun 2013 4:26PM
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subasurf said..

Edit: as sparki said. Plenty of great rides to be had if you wete willing to go hard on some very sketchy take offs. The wipeouts were a lot heavier than they appeared but the rewards were powerful throaty rides....for Perth.


The rips where I was were incredibly deceiving. On my last wave I was tired so I couldn't be bothered paddling hard enough so I decided to try experimenting by not catching the wave properly and riding the top of the wave in, sliding down into the white wash. Not very logical you're thinking. You'd be correct! I reiterate I was tired - potentially very. Ended up going down with the lip so I bailed. It was one of the bigger ones, so it sucked pretty hard with the rip. Fell into maybe two foot of water and corked my hip nicely on the sandbar. Still able shake sand out of my hair hours later. haha

Yes, the wipeouts were heavy and hurt.

There were a strangely high amount of kooks (no offense) out. That made from some entertaining late (unsuccessful) takeoffs, attempts to straighten out avoiding closeouts and hilarious attempts at getting barreled. All of which looked like they ended up with lots of water up the nose. Funny stuff! Thankfully, only a select few were charging. I think there would have been pretty bad injuries today if people tried pushing themselves on waves that were out of their league.

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
29 Jun 2013 4:34PM
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Looks like you got out as I was getting in (redbull girls rocked up).

The kooks not going for it have been the bane of my surfing week. I have no issue with people not wanting to charge heavier waves if it's out of their comfort zone, but SOOO many kooks were positioning themselves and then going for them and pulling out at the last moment (because they were clearly intimidated) on totally makable waves...and in doing so, they're stopping other more experienced surfers from getting the wave.
I don't want guys dropping into waves if they are too scared too. That's fine, we've all been there. It just seems like a lot of them were putting on the "I'm a hard charger" show and then bailing at the last minute as though it was a close out and not a perfectly makable wave. Once you figure out who those people are you just call yourself into the wave regardless.


And yeah, like you sparki, I smashed myself on the bottom so many times. My last wave, which was really quite big but coming in too straight. I paddled, grabbed rail, felt like I was air dropping (but probably not) and had so much speed when I was forced to straighten out. Still wasn't enough. The explosion of white water smashed me so ****ing hard and my fins went straight into the back of my legs as I hit the sand. I think I'm out of action for a couple of days hahahaha

Oh and the sand in the hair? I did a number 4 on my hair two weeks ago so it's real short. Still constantly have sand falling out, despite trying to wash it out. That was a VERY sandy shorebreak at Trigg this week.

It's been a good week in Perth.

Deano
WA, 255 posts
29 Jun 2013 7:26PM
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Helps if you have the wax side up.

I surfed in a black wetsuit.



sparki
WA, 410 posts
29 Jun 2013 8:10PM
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subasurf said..

Looks like you got out as I was getting in (redbull girls rocked up).

SOOO many kooks were positioning themselves and then going for them and pulling out at the last moment (because they were clearly intimidated) on totally makable waves...and in doing so, they're stopping other more experienced surfers from getting the wave.
I don't want guys dropping into waves if they are too scared too. That's fine, we've all been there. It just seems like a lot of them were putting on the "I'm a hard charger" show and then bailing at the last minute as though it was a close out and not a perfectly makable wave. Once you figure out who those people are you just call yourself into the wave regardless.


And yeah, like you sparki, I smashed myself on the bottom so many times. My last wave, which was really quite big but coming in too straight. I paddled, grabbed rail, felt like I was air dropping (but probably not) and had so much speed when I was forced to straighten out. Still wasn't enough. The explosion of white water smashed me so ****ing hard and my fins went straight into the back of my legs as I hit the sand. I think I'm out of action for a couple of days hahahaha

Oh and the sand in the hair? I did a number 4 on my hair two weeks ago so it's real short. Still constantly have sand falling out, despite trying to wash it out. That was a VERY sandy shorebreak at Trigg this week.

It's been a good week in Perth.


So you were getting just after midday? I wonder where the pics the girls took of those of us with red bull i hand will put the pics!

Yeah, there was a bit of that committed but was-never-going-to-take-off-in-the-first-place down my way. I found it worked for me to drop into a bomb right in front of those kind of guys (granted I had right of way). They'd usually get the idea of where I was at quickly after that and wouldn't bother trying for the same wave when another shapely bomb came through. If there's one thing I hate, it's multiple people hassling for what could be heavy wave.

Even though this Perth, the waves still have a way of putting you in your place, huh? haha It's pretty ridiculous. A solid 3 foot closeout packs a fair punch! But how the f1k does your surfboard turn around under you give you a piece of it's mind/fin??

haha, sounds like you had as much fun as me.

Buster fin
WA, 2575 posts
29 Jun 2013 8:11PM
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BOOM!

This mornings occasional epic tube fest had been turned into a mine field while I went and had a lie down.

Waist high backwash demolishing sudden-growing bomb sets that detonated in very little water.

I wonder how many boards and bodies would make the casualty list today...

I know I was tested. Got one memorable drainpipe. Got some severe beatings and almost had to call it an early 2nd session when I caught the first wave of an extended set and didn't think I'd be able to summon up the strength to go on with my campaign to get out the back!
I'm sure my leggie got a yogic stretching too.
Same again tomorrow? I'd be glad to.

paulford
WA, 312 posts
29 Jun 2013 10:28PM
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Went for a walk at Point Peron, first time visit. Looked interesting further out, one kayak and a lone SUP taking the pick of some good looking surf.

GPA
WA, 2519 posts
30 Jun 2013 12:33PM
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Same place as yesterday, but very different. Rips getting the better of it, and it was breaking a lot faster... keen selection and hard paddling were required to get the walls. And the weed was in

subasurf
WA, 2153 posts
30 Jun 2013 12:40PM
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sparki said..
But how the f1k does your surfboard turn around under you give you a piece of it's mind/fin??

haha, sounds like you had as much fun as me.


No idea mate. Woke up this morning with one hell of a bruise down my leg though. I think I'll have to perve my sorrows away at Trigg for the day.

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
30 Jun 2013 9:21PM
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GPA said..

Same place as yesterday, but very different. Rips getting the better of it, and it was breaking a lot faster... keen selection and hard paddling were required to get the walls. And the weed was in


Hoping tomorrow morning might be okay

Deano
WA, 255 posts
30 Jun 2013 9:44PM
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Went the mid morning session. Arrive to it frothing. No really frothy lines of white water. I threw on my cut of jeans and headed out on my trusty foamy. Managed to position myself right where the peaks were breaking, in the way of all the kooks out the back. Got some awesome waste high foam, prone all the way to the beach. Caught this one foam wall that was chest high and tried to stand up. Got a fin up the bum for my trouble. I hope someone saw that. Put the foamy back on the Commodore nose first fins down. Cruised home along bogan drive. Stopped for some KFC. Got Home to find my pregnant teenage girl friend having a smoke looking her ugliest. What to do next. I've got a week off. Arh what the hell, I'll go to Bali and drink Bingtang or read the repair manual for the commodore.

quirkus
WA, 322 posts
30 Jun 2013 10:03PM
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jbshack said..


GPA said..

Same place as yesterday, but very different. Rips getting the better of it, and it was breaking a lot faster... keen selection and hard paddling were required to get the walls. And the weed was in



Hoping tomorrow morning might be okay



tomorrow will be fine, good, ok ,,, don't believe the breezer northerly forecast, you know its always light offshore at the time you get down there.....
(a very unhealthy time of the day to be out of bed, I might add,,,, if god had of meant us to be out of bed at that time of the morning we would have been born with spot lights mounted on our foreheads)

I'm all funned out and the office has put out an APB on me already,, after last week...

jbshack
WA, 6913 posts
1 Jul 2013 1:10PM
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Deano said..

Went the mid morning session. Arrive to it frothing. No really frothy lines of white water. I threw on my cut of jeans and headed out on my trusty foamy. Managed to position myself right where the peaks were breaking, in the way of all the kooks out the back. Got some awesome waste high foam, prone all the way to the beach. Caught this one foam wall that was chest high and tried to stand up. Got a fin up the bum for my trouble. I hope someone saw that. Put the foamy back on the Commodore nose first fins down. Cruised home along bogan drive. Stopped for some KFC. Got Home to find my pregnant teenage girl friend having a smoke looking her ugliest. What to do next. I've got a week off. Arh what the hell, I'll go to Bali and drink Bingtang or read the repair manual for the commodore.



I hope manual is the Pictorial version

Raced back down again this morning. It was as expected smaller but still looked great. I see your point GPA the point did have a smaller wave then down the beach. I hadn't noticed that before as i like the shape more then size..

Anyway froze me arse of but got to surf with Surf royalty (WA boy whose daughter is a Pro on tour) and we had a great chat, shared waves and just a mellow start to the day. He surfed like the pro, he has in his blood lines, i surfed like a drowned rat again It was like GPA said with a bit too much North wind, choppy a little, and with rip's popping up it kept moving me out of position. The wave was a little quick and you often found yourself just half a foot behind the face trying to get around the section..

Anyway he told me of stories and places he'd surfed, people meet and sured with whilst travelling solid for a year whilst travelling on the women's tour..

Genuine all round top bloke

Zuke
901 posts
2 Jul 2013 8:51AM
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Still plenty of waves around this morning; clean, offshore and still a bit of size in the sets. Not many takers, everyone must be all surfed out with this unusually long run of good days Perth is having.



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"Legions surf report :: Daily updates.." started by doggie