This morning was JOY! Three hours with 3-4 crew in the water and shacked every single wave. Only made two but had lots of tunnel vision.
working for a living sucks 
Deadset Doggie, some of the best waves I've ever surfed in Perth. A mate got rolled on one and copped a rail to the scone, wrapped up in a blanky on the couch with concussion now. Really, really punchy.
Oh and you're welcome
Had a late arvo/evening look at Cottesloe. Absolutely beautiful waves rolling through. The swell direction was glorious. I didn't go in as I didn't have my wettie or boardies and was showing this uni chick around...was sooooo tormenting watching everyone (crowded as) getting these great little rides.
Picture perfect really...just could have been much bigger.
Squeezed in a quick 3 hours this arvo at Perth's favourite beachbreak. Who would've thought that after a week or two of storms, the banks would turn back to straighthanders? Still, there were a few if you were in the right place, right time. As it got later, people left and a strange thing happened - a magical little bank appeared right under our noses. It was me and two early-20s rippers sharing waves and it got better and better. Wind dropped off too.
So here's my funny story for the day - a couple of boogers paddled out on dusk. At one stage the two boarders near me drifted away a bit and there was me deepest, a booger further out and between me and the boarders, and the two boarders maybe 15-20m further down the line. A set came, and I had to paddle maybe 5m diagonally out to position myself. Booger scrambled for the horizon, then wheeled around, then paddled for his life, and called me off! I was flustered enough to shout WTF as his plan worked and I didn't go for it. He pulled out of the critical section anyway for some unknown reason and when he paddled out I had words with him. He said "I was on it first", which was technically true since he was out on the horizon and then paddling like mad whereas I was just in the critical position and didn't have to paddle much at all. Anyway, I'm no stand up comedian so I said something stupid back and ended up looking like a dick. At least he paddled away after that. If I'd caught the wave I would've been maybe 3m deeper than him. Technically he was on it first, but shoulder hopping. Before the boogers paddled out it was nice and relaxed, me and the other two guys taking turns and sharing. I wouldn't even think to paddle for a wave when they were deeper than me, and vice versa judging by how they behaved. A good vibe.
So anyway, a stupid situation like that can mess up my session. I'd got a few good waves, few nice turns and a couple of unco crouch down coverups (bit hard to squeeze 6'2" into 1' barrels). But you had to luck into the right one.
And then, on what was going to be my last wave, as it was getting dark, it looked like many other sets but as I stood up and went to pump down the line it all just lined up and I got a full 3s no-crouch standup barrel. That's pretty rare in Perth for me and reminds me why I love beachbreaks. Enough of a barrel for a young bloke to compliment me on my way in. Stoked. Reversed the bad mood from the confrontation.
Now to toss up - early or late tomorrow?
****ing spongers man...they always ruin a great sesh.
If they're not dropping in they're running their mouths off (ruining the relaxed mood) like the pre-pubescent little cvnts that they are.
...ahh...feel better now.
Oh...and congrats on a standing barrel...very rare indeed.
Beach breaks for the win...most the barrels I get are riding shorebreaks...and then I wonder why my boards (and bones) get broken
Nice to hear the session ended on a high Legion.
What ever the situation, if you call the wave you better bloody well get it! Bloody boogers.
Well, he caught it, then something happened where he pulled off through the lip right at the first hollow section and at the same time one of the shortboarders had dropped in on him (as you do in Perth) and pulled off even though he could've stayed on. The booger said he should've stayed on. The two shortboarders both groaned as they realised too late that the wave went on unridden. Why the booger pulled out I do not know.
As to me, I'm still ambivalent. Technically he was right, but it's just not something I would do, paddle out and within 5min shoulder hop an established pack. Obviously a booger with big balls. I mean, watching from the beach the two boogers would've seen that the two others and I knew what we were doing and had our order worked out. Takes a confident person to come out and flex their lineup muscle off the bat like that. Enough to fluster me. Good on him if he's that confident. I'm surprised he didn't think he'd done anything wrong, but then why did he paddle off after the crazy guy confronted him?
Drop me a line, we'll catch up for a brew and you can laugh at my broccoli. Mind you my brussel sprouts are startin to crank.
Gooood waves today mate, good enough that I'm gonna pull a metro early in the morning. Doesn't happen very often.
I guess its that thing where having a surf - the waves should come to you. Legion you were positioned just right for the wave and it came to you. Its easy to tell as a swell approaches who the guy in the right spot is...you give him a little hoot as he takes off to acknowledge his little piece of luck and hope theres another one behind.
I truly hate those guys who hassle the buggery and try to condone their self absorbed, piss poor effort with a technicality...surfing is not about technicalities at all.
Just got back from a brilliant morning sesh. Big wait between waves but got a shoulder height tube ride that has left me with big hopes for the rest of the day. Off to uni and then to get boozie with this cute blonde bird
A Pure Blonde Suba....sorry it had to be said!
Best winter I can remember in a while, whoever runs the show upstairs is sticking it up the haters claiming the weather has changed forever and that we would never get a "winter like we used to"
I obviously went to the wrong spot today. The coin toss said go this morning so I did and it was:
- much fuller than yesterday afternoon on the high tide
- much fatter
- much more inconsistent
- much smaller
- much colder
- much less hollow in the deeper water
- a waste of time
There's kind of an outer bank then feels like a gutter then the close in banks and it struggles to link up. There were guys sitting 15m from shore on the close in bank. I paddled about 300m looking for a good bank and couldn't find any and couldn't get any waves. Having said that, a few guys were in the right place and got a few at the right time. But I'll bet the afternoon is better.
The swell was 2.5m at 6:30 and down to 1.9m now and still dropping and the off shore is picking up. I think you had to be in before 7 to have had the best of it today.
Hahaha...doggie probably wishes he was as young as me and I wish I was as good a surfer as he.
No...not the same person.
