I should've listened to Zuke and gone out up the road, but I have a soft spot for my local and I haven't surfed it all winter and I wanted at least one day there. Plus I was worried Zuke had neglected to mention the frequent closeouts - it might've been too big for those beachies with straight banks. I hoped it would be big enough where I went, but not so apart from the odd sneaker when I first paddled out. Plus there are always ripping locals to provide competition. Such a fickle, inconsistent, small wave for such a high percentage of local rippers. And yet always blowins too, mostly tourists thanks to the backpackers up the road and in all the local carparks. Brazzos, poms, Germans, etc.
Today I was frustrated by two old fellas. One on a mal sitting right on the rocks. Twice he paddled hard for a set so I courteously left it to him only for him to guiltily give up right when he should go the hardest. Another old fella, same thing. Warranted a drop-in but that's against my nature. FFS if you're not committed, don't paddle.
Also got a nice set on my second wave and got dropped in on by not one, but two guys at 20m intervals. OK, so it's a wally wave with a few sections when it lines up but FFS recognise that the locals have it wired and will ride it the whole way in round those sections. As it was the two kooks spoiled the two best sections on what could've been the best wave I got all day.
I didn't have a good day.
6 weeks 'til I drive past thommo. Staying just past your turnoff (the further away one) for an overnighter, just booked today. I'll wave.
F#ck! That's way too big and nasty for me... I admire those that can tame beasts such as those....
Two or so feet over head height for me... any more and I start to hesitate the take off (unless of course it's some roller of a wave, then it doesn't count).
Nice photo tho' - looks like he would have made it - did he?
Man, I'd love to call in. Bit of tight timeframe though, what with an arvo drive just past you then another same length drive the next day.
One day I'll have to schedule a boys' weekend/week away without the family so I can be more flexible with my time. Otherwise trips away coincide with school holidays and I can't imagine it being worth visiting with the crowds etc. Maybe bring doggie 
.
4 knot ENE, 2.6m swell - local cams look good... some with shape at Scarbs...
...and I'm at work! 
and the weekend looks to be dissapointing [again].
.
and the weekend looks to be dissapointing [again].
Really clean again this morning, but noticeably smaller and straighter at Trigg. Maybe a tide thing but most of the sets at 2nd's were just shutting down.
Yesterday was the day!
I was just down from "Zuke's" for the early today. Perfect conditions, some sets with potential and ...
... I was the world's biggest kook. I've made a habit out of avoiding my backhand. The 0.01% of waves I do get on my backhand, occasionally I pull a nice hack or whatever and feel good about myself and think I can still do it. But today, wow. I paddled out to a forehand bank at first light, but then a rent-a-crowd followed me out. There was a nice backhand bank just up the beach, empty, so I paddled up to it. A few others tried to join me but it was a very strong sweep and you basically couldn't sit, had to paddle constantly to maintain position. But there were the odd 3' sets lining up nicely.
Wave 1: late takeoff on the shoulder, go for big bottom turn, bog inside rail, spear through lip.
Wave 2: late takeoff, made it but positioned feet too close to inside rail and could only ride out to the shoulder trying not to dig the rail, failing as I reach the shoulder and dive over the nose of the board like a kook.
Wave 3: late takeoff, fast wall ahead, try to bottom turn too early, all fins pop out, board slides and I can't hold it and down I go.
Wave 4+: more assorted kook fest waves. Not a single good wave.
You're welcome for the laugh if you were out there. It must've looked funny, a guy who kept paddling deep like he knew what he was doing but just kept majorly blowing it. I felt like a complete beginner.
When I have days like this it makes me think I need to spend a year or so forcing myself to only surf backhand. But given the multitude of good forehand waves in this state I always find them far more tempting. Still, I'd like to develop a good pig dog, and a good backhand bottom turn. That's light years from this morning's performance though.
Im not afraid of my back hand and I can usually do a better top turn going left than right, what is with that!!
We all have days like that Legion, at least that's your one out the way for a while
I find the backhand is defiately one that needs to be practised, preferably on a mechanical type of wave. I spent a lot of summer on a backhand reefy on small to mid sized waves, was comfortable enough and happy with how I tackled them.
Fast forward a few months of surfing mainly rights and beachies, got no where near the same level of confidece on the backhand 
Popped into trigg this morning on my way to the fisheries library. Worth it. Super clean but the tide was making it a bit tricky. Lent my wetsuit to someone so boardies in the water at 7am. FREEZING!
FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARK me suba, you are a bloody loony!!
I had to red thumb him for that
I had to red thumb him for that
I had to red thumb him for that
Anyone get out today?
Spent about 2 hours in the water at Cott but wasn't that great; was just desperate really. The occasional okay set rolled in and while I waited I was reminded that the blue bottles are in.
i'll be the one to ask then, Suba did the lending of the wetty pay off?? as a happily married man of 15 years I'm living with the regret of having never pulled that move, that was pure genius..... so??
hahaha well it's happening again tomorrow so yeah...we'll leave it at that
It isn't a 'get laid quick' scheme...I'm all about long term investing.
All those economic books on my shelf finally paid off hahaha.
Secret Harbour at 7.30 am yesterday in boardies was a heavy initial capital investment...but it paid dividends for sure
