4 foot at my preferred go to wave. Only 8 guys. Swapped boards with a bloke because he said I was making it look easy on the 8 footer and it must have been the board, not him. Knowing my fitness and skill level, I agreed and handed it over. Turned out it was him. kept sitting wide and when I pointed out where he was sitting was where the big ones broke, he was adamant he just wanted to hang there. Oh well. Got a few on his Firewire Hellfire (which felt too loose and flappy for me) then swapped back.
Best waves I have had for six weeks.
Happy New Year!
Just saw a surf cam of snapper and it looks like its going off its tits! Enjoy if you get it!
Me ill just keep plugging away at work!
Happy New Year! May you all be blessed with epic sessions throughout 2016.
HAd the last two arvos surfing Granites with all my mates waist to shoulder with a few bigger ones every 20 minutes. Good fun on the log, most peeps were underdone in the volume dept so made it pretty easy to compete. Getting the camper ready for 3 weeks of island fun from Sat. Happy new year.
Thought I'd go a bit early and it was the right move. Nice waist to shoulder high peaks and not crowded. Plenty of the local boys out there which was good. Some really nice shaped waves and plenty of them. Good way to start the new year. Looking like we will get some decent swell around Sunday. Seems like QLD is already getting it.
i took the 666 out for a surf today on full waist hi waves with 4 hours sleep and still burping bundy
i broke a $500 paddle on the fifth wave.
went home and got the 10' redline then had a very nice surf.
I'm praying the wind won't swing NW so the swells there tomorrow.
Snapped a $500 paddle geez azz ya poor bugger
...........
Took my 666 out for a paddle. Was a little cool this morning so avoided getting wet which was easy coz there weren't any waves. Plenty of cross shore though...wishing I was at Granites with Tractorguy, love that break. I wonder if the porcelin throne dunny with the amazing view is still there
Nowhere today, but took the son out for a tandem surf yesterday - he loved it. Also face to the conclusion that I only like riding my board as a single fin.
Granites is a great wave.
I'm glad you karma came good, but the paddle was annoying I bet.
I surfed a dropping 3-4 reefie. Lefts and rights. I hadn't been on the longboard in any size for a while so was falling off the bigger ones when I cutback into the foam, or when leaning back and trying to turn it like a shortboard in the pocket. Good fun. Pretty uncrowded too (8-14 peeps).
Surfed a crappy central coast Beachie. 2 ft close outs with lots of back wash. Caught 3 average waves and called it a day. Nice swim I will think of it on reflection Tom morning will be doing a dawn raid on my old local treasure. Think it will be pretty good - but not getting too excited.
We've got some heavy surf and conditions here atm,big swell and strong winds.
Sadly a 34 year old surfer who went missing yesterday body was found 20 k
from where he entered the surf.
Also today an ironman broke his neck in two places surfing this morning,he is
lucky he should make a full recovery and the surf is going to be bigger tomorrow.
Heavy. Thoughts go out to the family. If it's big and chunky make sure you are in reasonable condition before paddling out.
2.5 hours of small wedges this morning. Some nice shape at times. Think it will be cranking shortly as some nice sets were just starting to hit as we exited the water. Looks like some promising banks on beach we surfed this morning. Good to be back in the old hood.
Double overhead mate, one longboarder out its just too wild to surf a longboard here when it's like this, I was looking for LL but no show. He must have been at d-bah on his shortboard because its conditions like this he rides them.
Can you sit further down point Mac ? No surfing for me today . In Sydney for the day but tomorrow is looking good .
Great to see you guys are getting some swell and good waves Macaha, devastating the poor bloke has lost his life and another injured. Hope everyone stays safe.
good stuff mac the swell is to south of us ,,fraser stops it.
noticed alex head had a nice wave rolling in.
nothing here today,back to waiting for another low.
enjoy it boys.