Gentlemen hours session...only really one or two local banks firing but good when on. good solid 3-4ft. (Seems to be my size limit too..I struggle on the drops if bigger..any tips from all you pros out there) Wind, light NE, got on it and made it bumpy...but fun when on.
Got out of the water after two hours as there was TO MUCH fish life in the water...garfish being smashed by tailor every where...just got too spooky with garfish being eaten right next to you and baitfish jumping out of the water in front on you on take off. Dolphins moved in and then we all stated seeing "grey shapes" in the wave...enough was enough for the mind of this bloke.
Have had a massive amount of waves since last week. Only one bad surf at a hostile point....I now avoid any tryhard d1ckhead with a mad Huey sticker. These nobs make the unit bogan cool. Try and turn the point into the north shore....pfffft make me laugh
Besides that the swell has been not massive,but has a lot of push in it,you get caught inside and you will get worked....but so fast and clean,just so many fun waves
Climber from a broken kook....I find the on the bigger beachies to keep my knees bent more than usual. Seems to help with the late drop/hollow ones and allows me to set up for the wave. More keeps my centre of balance
Surf is absolutely pumping here this evening. Some chunky ones with loads of push resulted in several smashings for me Great fun.
Climber - the best advice I ever got was to put your weight on your front foot and lean forward. Seems a bit weird on a late drop but its very similar to snowboarding. If you keep your front foot firmly planted then your board will follow. If you put all your weight backwards you not be able to extend out of your bottom turn and will be well behind. If you are leaning forward and into your turn you can just extend as you launch your bottom turn and before you know it you will be flying past the first section.
Just been for a look bigger surf in the spa last night , next week .....
Funny in surfing how you can develop bad habits , such as not bending your knees , or not putting your back foot back ,and because it is such an individual sport you get hammered on a wave which you would normally make and are left wondering why .Have found the go- pro pretty useful in the past to iron out my bad habits when my surfing goes to sh.t ( though the sh-t is constant the level of it varies from week to week )
We didn't get the swell down here but there was the odd wave coming through. It was packed and no where near as good shaped as it was through the week. It was better than being at work though
Last resort pleasant surprise. An open beach often bumpy and messy with any swell rather than being in anyway decent was good Sat good n mighty fine Sun. Particularly good when it was the last stop before heading home Sat . 5 out sat n 4 SUPS . Few more Sun (SUP s have to tell their mates) still pretty reasonable crowd wise. There was more in the coffee shop who didn't get wet cause they didn't bother looking past their regular spot.i ain't telling em!
BIG here...really close to out of control on the beach so enjoyed a good coffee...surfed twice yesterday and was feeling it...hopefully out for an arvo sess though
@chrispy...sounds like you scored today
Much better down here today. Easy 3 foot and at times bigger east swell but theres a fair bit of south in it now. Went at 2pm and surfed a reef on my belly board. Got plenty and had heaps of fun and uncrowded.
Hey looks like I got Capital Gains tax heading my way .... farken bastards ..... might have to sell up within 2 years anyway Brother Asea (king of 100's of gold coast smoking hot chicks with wet T-Shirts drooooooooool !!!!!!) ..... plane flight for property sussing here I come