Trigg: very ordinary, maybe 4/10
3rd car park had a shoulder high peak that looked OK, but had about 20 blokes on it including three SUP's... after watching it for about 15min it looked like 8/10 waves closed out...
2nds was just weird - a good bank but there was a chronic undercurrent that made it hard to hold your spot... rights were a bit fat, even on a mal.
By 11:00 the swell had dropped and there was a long wait for waves - and even then they were barely waist high... Wind came in at 11:30am.
North Scarb was okay very early. But as the tide came in it got too full and got worse.
Surfed mostly on my own or with a few Long Boarders. Driving back up the coast the walking path was like peak hour traffic..But i will say the guy who invented Spandex type clothing is a legend
9:00am - 10:00am Trigg Seconds was ordinary - some OK shape, but small and inconsistent - and a touch fat... Got three or four I was 'happy' with...
Well summer like conditions, BIKINIS, crowds
but still BIKINIS
and
good fun surf at well known beach with a clock tower 3 board shops and rhymes with borough but a bit more north ( no secrets given away by this little black duck..hate to give away secrets of the metro area). knee to waist good shape runners on a little bank that only 1 brazio and his girlfriend appeared at....
mmmm LOMBOK in 6days
NW'er was in early - white caps by 9:00am... swell has picked up at Trigg.
Went to see if the Cott reefs were a little more protected, but they were smaller than expected and full of SUP'ers...
did a trip to Denmark with the surf team over the weekend, solid double overhead on Saturday with good wind in the morning, onshore by 12 but not too bad at a well known spot. Sunday pretty average due to wind, whale about 200m away from a popular peak which was pretty cool. One local dude pretty unhappy about the "rent a crowd" but others didn't mind, some people really think they "own" the place.
Maybe I should come to your wave bakes, or bring 20 with me. Not having a crack mate, just saying if the shoe was on the other foot. Sounds like some of your locals are pretty into keeping your joint quiet.
PP, this guy was over the top abusing two teachers in front of fifteen kids at Ocean Beach, hardly a spot that is unknown. The plan was to walk the beach and find an uncrowded peak, which I told him. The idea is to give the team an experience of the mission, long drive through the night, spend dollars in the town and leave it the way we found it. That's a pretty basic rite of passage in Aus and many other countries, this guy had forgotten that because he stayed in his own little world, gave the kids an education into how some people see the world, every other local was cool or even happy to see us, especially when we found our own spot away from them If I'd rocked up to my little spot and a busload of kids from out of town arrived I'd be annoyed for a moment but hopefully see the positive, if it happened every weekend maybe I'd be super pissed off.
Good reply mate, yeah that's not on. I didn't realise that was the case. Sounds like you do great things for the kids there!
thanks mate but i just tagged along for this trip, gave the new wheels a run and helped out with supervision. Nick jenkins(longboard champ) is the surf guru at school, organises the whole thing and is a legend