Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

Dunno DP, from faceberk page of a lifeguard from Port Macquarie NSW. Doesn't look shopped though.

Anyone get the early in today? Looks like the swell didn't jump as much as expected yet on the rotto buoys, down south is showing 10ft + sets, big day

Just came back from a surf check... Trigg to Mullaloo. Lots of swell coming through, but Trigg is not handling it... basically the low tide and stiff offshore it's just a long over head close-out through third car park... and seconds is full of rip and backwash.

Oh, and there's plenty of people too...

Northern reefies are very rocky... and some spots are full of weed.

I'm going back down early arvo with fingers crossed.

So business as usual then

Legion was out every day, in fact twice most days. But Legion's back early due to a less-than-favourable weather forecast at the end. Wednesday looked good but always had to be back before that anyway.

Legion scored, as usual. A few days of marginal waves, but a three day run of 4'+. Including a morning of super low tide with regular 4' sets, occasional 5' sets and the odd 6'er. And for some reason (I know the reason), there were only ever between 1 and 3 other people out all morning.

Place is absolutely infested with SUPs now. More than shortboarders in smaller conditions or fuller tide. Like 10+ most days. Luckily they sit wide or down the line, but a lot of them are clueless. Pretty sure they're the wind crew who SUP/wind morning/afternoon.

Legion got in a very physical and heated discussion with one SUP. Amusing.

On another occasion another one pissed me off by dropping in (of sorts) on three waves before I paddled in in disgust. Watched him do the same to others. I'd already said something, but he ignored it. What do you say to someone who has no idea? It wasn't (I think) malice, it was just ignorance.

Place has no manners or etiquette. It's very frustrating at < 4', when everyone's a hero.

Chatted to a few other SUP guys who obviously had water background, no problem with them.

Surfing standard is very low at this time of year. One guy from town who I've seen/chatted to before is about the only standout. He's got it fully sussed.

The best day I was highly successful in working out some stuff that had bothered me last trip (i.e. wave selection and taking off over draining reef from deep down the line). Right when I thought I had it wired I got thrashed for my overconfidence, bounced off the bottom, but the 20+ good ones far outweighed the one mistake. Some free-diving breathing exercises beforehand paid dividends.

Also got several afternoons in howling onshore at my favourite-in-the-world howling onshore reef, F_________ in front. So predictable and so high-performance.

Maybe some photos to come. There was a kid on the beach who does some sort of semi-pro photography, said he might've got some shots.

Oh yeah, saw Katana's red wood/black rails longboard. English guy? Friendly? Or at least a very similar board.

fozzy wants to know why Legion is referring to himself in the third person.

Legion's not sure. Just responding to Zuke in kind, I guess.

Did ya mate get that cray?

Not in the slightest Legion. And there's a green for ya.

Yeh crowds were terrible at trigg today.

School holidays...

After being frustrated, I went and sat in a big rip and played the paddling/waiting game. After a while got an awesome one then went in.


What do people do with snakes. I'm sick of having right of way, and then someone paddles around me and tries calling off on the inside. Seems kinda rude. I know I could go deeper, but when I'm already in a good spot with right of way, I'm not going to go too deep to reduce my chances of making the wave.

1:00pm update: Super low tide, and the rips at TSCP are worse than at 8:00am... rocks a'plenty at the other spots... my second go-to break is full of weed and it has spread further down the beach since this morning... looks as tho' the southerly is about to come in... gentle white-caps starting.

Might be a LAGO today for those that time it right...

I wonder if it is an age thing? are there old snakes out there? Surfed my usual spot this morning with 7 others (bit of a crowd) some I knew some I got to know today, waves were shared but if you didn't go you just called someone in or sat back for a couple, average age was 30'ish. Just got back from a very popular spot, knew a few crew but the rest were strangers to me, same vibe though with crew sharing, calling in or asking if you wanted the wave, makes for a great session. Is it impossible to think that this could happen everywhere?

Would have been a bit bumpy ay JB?

Yeah - I stood there watching it for a good 20min, but it was much smaller than I expected and it was full of weed - not just in shore, but right at out the back... I reckon they were getting 20m of clear water before hitting weed soup

I wonder if it is an age thing? are there old snakes out there? Surfed my usual spot this morning with 7 others (bit of a crowd) some I knew some I got to know today, waves were shared but if you didn't go you just called someone in or sat back for a couple, average age was 30'ish. Just got back from a very popular spot, knew a few crew but the rest were strangers to me, same vibe though with crew sharing, calling in or asking if you wanted the wave, makes for a great session. Is it impossible to think that this could happen everywhere?

Mate happens most places when older crew are out, weve got over the gotta have every wave thing and are stoked to see a mate catch a wave.
In Lombok when the crew was older the pecking order and turn taking was in, as soon a younger crew paddled out its like the HEAT clock is on. Same at Balangan and Kuta beachies n reefs, mellow =ages 30+ COMP/HEAT=18-30yrs.
Although I still enjoy a bit of snake action on a mates wave.... Dropin comp/count can be good fun