one way you could check the sideways position is use the jib halyard and hold it on the deck at the shroud turn buckle on port side the try starboard and measure difference if any ?
to check for fore and aft lean stand to the side and eyeball .......... I,m a fan of very slight mast tilt forward.... don't know why it works but mine is about 2.5 degs forward I'm guessing and she sails like a witch !!
Select to expand quoteoldboyracer said..
I have been following your progress enviously,she is looking great . I've managed to remove all the 1980s carpet from the back cabin and patch 27 holes in the deck above with epoxy while you rebuilt a complete yacht. 
I'm a bit tired and need to recharge at the moment
I fitted up a 32 inch Tv to the hinges on the main bulk head today it moves up and ill make it so it can stay there when I'm sailing or when I don't want to use it
I bought some rugs which ill use on the floor from K mart nice and cheap so Ill probably fit a couple on the floor for now with some non skid mat under them two will do the length $19 each so when there a bit tired Ill buy a couple more for now as I still have to make a mess inside.
I did make room for my batteries under the settees but may now move then behind the mizzen bulk head there is lots of spare room there and the boat need more weight near the stern . So ill start thinking about making a support shelf for them back there
If there's a break in the weather ill put them in the cock pit tomorrow and see how the weight transfer looks
' I need to measure my forestay so my Genoa can be made . I was going to fit the furler before hand but I will just subtract the measurements of the top and bottom of the furler and and give David Ryan my measurement .
My Anderson 28's should have been delivered today so Il see about them tomorrow
I have a new I beam Ronstan 32 a metre long which mounting bracket need to be made as I'm fitting that slightly forward of the original fit on the boat. also ordered two
I'm going to make a sliding version of an admiral system I hope to fit a beam between the carriages so when they slide from port to starboard one of the carriages is located over centre
And Ill fit a couple of these to to the carriages Mine have a slightly different base mount than the photo
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
one way you could check the sideways position is use the jib halyard and hold it on the deck at the shroud turn buckle on port side the try starboard and measure difference if any ?
to check for fore and aft lean stand to the side and eyeball .......... I,m a fan of very slight mast tilt forward.... don't know why it works but mine is about 2.5 degs forward I'm guessing and she sails like a witch !!
I really think Ill need some advice and help setting up the rigging / mast
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..SandS said..
one way you could check the sideways position is use the jib halyard and hold it on the deck at the shroud turn buckle on port side the try starboard and measure difference if any ?
to check for fore and aft lean stand to the side and eyeball .......... I,m a fan of very slight mast tilt forward.... don't know why it works but mine is about 2.5 degs forward I'm guessing and she sails like a witch !!
I really think Ill need some advice and help setting up the rigging / mast
Have a read of the Selden rigging/tuning guide, it has some good info to get you started.
www.seldenmast.com/files/1456145028/595-540-E.pdf
Select to expand quoteFreeRadical said..HG02 said..SandS said..
one way you could check the sideways position is use the jib halyard and hold it on the deck at the shroud turn buckle on port side the try starboard and measure difference if any ?
to check for fore and aft lean stand to the side and eyeball .......... I,m a fan of very slight mast tilt forward.... don't know why it works but mine is about 2.5 degs forward I'm guessing and she sails like a witch !!
I really think Ill need some advice and help setting up the rigging / mast
Have a read of the Selden rigging/tuning guide, it has some good info to get you started.
www.seldenmast.com/files/1456145028/595-540-E.pdf
Thanks Ill have a good read
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..SandS said..
one way you could check the sideways position is use the jib halyard and hold it on the deck at the shroud turn buckle on port side the try starboard and measure difference if any ?
to check for fore and aft lean stand to the side and eyeball .......... I,m a fan of very slight mast tilt forward.... don't know why it works but mine is about 2.5 degs forward I'm guessing and she sails like a witch !!
I really think Ill need some advice and help setting up the rigging / mast
The rigger at yaringa would be the go to expert ....
Added my two angry Anderson's
Today
Mounted the idiot box
At least I can now watch as many doco's as I like
Added a rug but it's coming down
There my floor mats actually
H2o if you have any bare interior fibreglass that needs covering you could try my quick and easy wall paper trick....just don't tell anyone ok 
Started building my main sheet track ack system it's going on the cabin roof I'm going to make a spacer bar between the two track carriers
Started building my main sheet track ack system it's going on the cabin roof I'm going to make a spacer bar between the two track carriers
Select to expand quoteEC31 said..
Looking very nice.
We recently renewed the 70's burnt orange cushions. A place up this way (Foam Booth) sells foam specifically for boats. No mould, water resistant. They did the cushions with a vinyl bottom so we could use them outside even when wet.
Did they also make new covers?
What price?
I had a quote to recover mine using the same foam $2500
So I still have the blue vinyl.
Hi HG
She is looking good
What have you decided for you mainsheet setup
Regards Don
4 hours, $40 bucks, 4 beers later and I have my mini breakfast bar! Also finished wallpapering the bottom half of the V berth cabin. Scratching my head? Head to the bow or heads to the stern in a V berth?
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
4 hours, $40 bucks, 4 beers later and I have my mini breakfast bar! Also finished wallpapering the bottom half of the V berth cabin. Scratching my head? Head to the bow or heads to the stern in a V berth?
Seems like breakfast consists of scotch by two?
Select to expand quotetwodogs1969 said..EC31 said..
Looking very nice.
We recently renewed the 70's burnt orange cushions. A place up this way (Foam Booth) sells foam specifically for boats. No mould, water resistant. They did the cushions with a vinyl bottom so we could use them outside even when wet.
Did they also make new covers?
What price?
I had a quote to recover mine using the same foam $2500
So I still have the blue vinyl.
They did 11 cushions and backrests for just under $3500. All the cushions have vinyl bases and zippers and they supplied all materials. I just supplied the templates, which was easy, just cut up the old ones. Excellent workmanship too.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
Southace....easier to get out head to bow. But more ventilation head to stern.
I have been sleeping head to stern much more room that way esspecialy when if there's 2 !
Select to expand quotesouthace said..samsturdy said..
Southace....easier to get out head to bow. But more ventilation head to stern.
I have been sleeping head to stern much more room that way esspecialy when if there's 2 !
Very true South....better to touch toesies than have a nose in your ear 
Well I finally got round to adding lights and a fan to the rear cabin which involved drilling a hole thru the bulkhead. Mmm that went thru a bit to easy, a few minutes with the grinder and I thought let's have a coffee. Only lost half the bulkhead lol will scarf in a new bit with epoxy, go up north for this season then tear out rear cabin when I get back to fit a new one. Another job on the list , next is replace the Volvo MD11C which runs well but I don't want to take chances going that far north. Parts any one.
I'm after some advice regarding the rot, before I do my temporary repair what should I treat the remaining timber with, remembering that I can only get to the parts that are visible. Are there some effective treatments that I can pour around to kill the remaining rot spores to probably only give me peace of mind for a year.
I haven't used it myself Oldboy but Everdure might be suitable. I did go to a hardware shop
some time ago and the manager was raving on about a product that turned rotten timber into
'steel' he reckoned, but the rot had to be dry. So it seems there are products about.
Select to expand quoteoldboyracer said..
I'm after some advice regarding the rot, before I do my temporary repair what should I treat the remaining timber with, remembering that I can only get to the parts that are visible. Are there some effective treatments that I can pour around to kill the remaining rot spores to probably only give me peace of mind for a year.
Ethylene glycol, ie radiator coolant it is not only toxic it's also hygroscopic so it will go where eve the moisture is present, if you can seal it up and keep the moisture out it works well. I read a essay from a industrial chemist some years back who compared it to chemotherapy for wooden boats. I kept an old heron going well after its use by date with it. Good luck.
Select to expand quotewoko said..oldboyracer said..
I'm after some advice regarding the rot, before I do my temporary repair what should I treat the remaining timber with, remembering that I can only get to the parts that are visible. Are there some effective treatments that I can pour around to kill the remaining rot spores to probably only give me peace of mind for a year.
Ethylene glycol, ie radiator coolant it is not only toxic it's also hygroscopic so it will go where eve the moisture is present, if you can seal it up and keep the moisture out it works well. I read a essay from a industrial chemist some years back who compared it to chemotherapy for wooden boats. I kept an old heron going well after its use by date with it. Good luck.
The other magic bullet for rot is boron or boric acid. Most people think rot is caused by excess moisture in the wood but it is really caused by various species of wood decay fungi which feed on the cellulose found in wood (termites and fungi are the only things that feed on cellulose) its just that the fungi needs the moisture to survive. The boric acid travels through the capillaries of the moist timber and is toxic to fungus and protects the timber from fungal decay.
Select to expand quoteoldboyracer said..
I'm after some advice regarding the rot, before I do my temporary repair what should I treat the remaining timber with, remembering that I can only get to the parts that are visible. Are there some effective treatments that I can pour around to kill the remaining rot spores to probably only give me peace of mind for a year.
everdure is perfect for the job but but make sure you paint on the first couple of coats on heavily thinned ... the more you thin it the further out the timber will suck it up
Not sure whether Everdure has the biocides in it still these days. I think it's just expensive thin epoxy now. Just slop cheap engine coolant, glycol over the area. The concentrated small tins older cars used is fine. Soaks into damp wood well. Wait till it dries before using epoxy.
